Direct Exum Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 21
Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jul 12, 2022 10:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2022

Full Exum, Grand Teton  Sucess!

Great day with Coryna from UT. The three black rock pitches were by far the highlight. Via my assault on the 50 N American classics, I had planned on soloing this route, but Coryna wanted to climb it and we had a great day. The best (and crux) pitch by far is the first of the two back to back upper black face pitches. There are multiple variations of course through the solid black lower portion littered with finger splitters. We started up the left side and traversed right on pumpy and steep ground at the grade or above. On the upper Exum, we seemed to tick most of the interesting corner and face pitches that were highlighted on To start the route, we followed the ramp back left at the base of the face you are climbing and I ran a rope from that additional "half" pitch to the top of the "chimney" pitch. I have always avoided the Tetons due to the commercialization of it all (3 guide huts near the Grand Teton with tons of guides milling about) but we had a fairly quiet day (maybe 3 other parties summited the Grand Teton that day) on a Monday in early July.

Hermdawg - Aug 21, 2020 7:34 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2020

Youngest to Climb?  Sucess!

Avery Childre (12 y/o) climbed The Full Exum on August 3, 2020, car to car. Any other clean, single day ascents by children? After the rain storm, it was a beautiful day of climbing. :)


JonW - Jun 28, 2013 9:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

Classic  Sucess!

Stuck behind a super slow party...annoying


asmrz - Dec 22, 2012 3:29 pm

Direct Exum, a good route

Bill Krause and I climbed the lower and upper Exum in July 1989 from our camp at the Meadows. Great route.


bedellympian - Sep 12, 2012 12:04 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2012

trail by night  Sucess!

Left car at 3:15am and returned at 12:30am the next night. Definitely took longer than expected. Lead p1 and 3-6. Combined p3&4 and 5&6 easily to make the lower a 4 pitch. Lots of traffic on the lower. Route finding also contributed to time loss. Upper is pretty easy solo in approach shoes. Great weather allowed us to push to summit despite late hour.


dharmabum - Aug 29, 2011 4:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2011

Complete Exum  Sucess!

Climbed lower and upper Exum from lower saddle on 14th. Hiked to lower saddle on 13th. Conditions were cool and windy, but overall pretty good. Lots of snow up to lower saddle and several patches on the route. Did entire thing in approach shoes. Ice axe needed in several spots.


noahs213 - Aug 8, 2011 11:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011

Great climb  Sucess!

Loved the black face

Ted Eliason

Ted Eliason - Aug 1, 2011 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

A committing route  Sucess!

If I had one complaint of this route, it zig zag placements and a lot of rope drag. Combined with the Upper Exum in 8 hours and got hit with weather on the summit. Highly recommend the complete Exum only in stable high pressure weather conditions.


Vinny - Feb 27, 2011 5:24 pm

coming of age

My first big alpine route turned epic. Climbed with Bill who I met at the ranch the day prior. Great guy wonder what he is upto now? Saved the buts of a father and son crew from SLC that overestimated their readiness. Basically my first rescue to make a long story short. Great mountain. returned once already for Valhalla couloir- will be back ...


ExcitableBoy - Jan 1, 2011 10:52 am

Back in the day  Sucess!

Climbed it with a girl. It was her first real mountain and third multipitch rock climb.


MichaelJ - Aug 22, 2010 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010

Direct  Sucess!

Climbed the full ridge in under 2 hours, 11 hours car-to-car. Lost quite a bit of time looking for start. Wasn't even sure I was on route until I got to the black wall, which was super fun. Carried a rope for the raps but rode someone else's line down. Training weight, I guess.


SKI - Jul 20, 2010 8:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010

Bad timing

Partner fell after some rocks gave way on our way up the 4th class direct start to the chimney prompting an immediate descent. Thanks to the NPS Rangers and Exum Guides for their help when shit hit the fan at the lower saddle.


jamesmc2 - Jul 5, 2010 2:16 am

Car to Car in 12 hours  Sucess!

One of the best alpine style climbs I have done. Got off route on the black face pitch which was exciting. After reaching the summit we returned to our packs at the lower saddle and found that marmots had eaten all of our food! A woman there with Exum guides hooked us up with two slices of pizza which fueled our descent.


GrumpyJohn - Mar 29, 2010 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Direct Exum

An absolute must do. If you're not sure of the route or your own abilities, pay a guide. But climb this!


reboyles - Mar 1, 2010 8:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1976

Direct Exum  Sucess!

I climbed this route with Frank Florence. We met up with Mike Weber and Frank's dad Lou higher up on Upper Exum. Lou had made several previous attempts to get up the Grand but had been turned back by snow every time. Lou was an original member of the 10th Army Mountain Division and had seen action in Italy in WWII. It was an honor to climb and summit with this member of "The Greatest Generation".

Yankeeriver - Sep 18, 2009 6:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Direct Exum  Sucess!

I climbed with Exum Guide Pat Ormond. My first time up Grand Teton, or above 12K feet for that matter. I had a great, cold and icey time. Can't wait to come back with my wife and do it again.


Bonesaw - Jul 29, 2009 10:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2009

Lower Exum

Great route! Led my wife up all pitches then took Wall Street back down. This was a full day in itself... complete with a few route finding complications. The Black Face pitch is simply AMAZING!A fast moving party could do the entire ridge in a day. If you have doubts, split the Lower and Upper into two separate days.


bfrench - Apr 28, 2009 12:35 am

Direct Exum  Sucess!

Climbed 3 times all with great friends including my wife.


ToddinDurango - Aug 20, 2007 1:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2007

Smoky Day

Success on this day? The Lower Exum is a day in itself. We woke well before sunrise to thick smoke from wildfires. Made good time getting to base--axes and crampons completely unnecessary, surprising for June. Made good time on the Lower. Loved the last three pitches. I got a little off route on pitch 6 with long run out on slopers; go a bit right there. Made it past the wind tunnel when the first signs of nasty weather in a week made us turn back. Rappel down to Wall Street with long, winding slog back down. Success? Some of the best pitches of my life. Thanks Justin for being a great comrade.


seth@LOKI - Aug 17, 2006 6:19 am

Not crowded except by clouds  Sucess!

Zach M and I eschewed with the middle three pitches to beat the clouds rolling in on the peak. Excellent climbing. I should train up and head for the middle section some day. I'd rather climb Owen and Teewinot fisrt.

Viewing: 1-20 of 21
Return to 'Direct Exum' main page