Direct South Buttress, IV, 5.8, A1, or 5.12 Climber's Log

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bkrause - Jun 12, 2015 9:45 pm

with Alois  Sucess!

It has been almost twenty-eight years since I climbed the DSB with Alois, thirty summers after the first ascent in 1953. If you want to experience the original climb, DO the original descent as described in Fifty Classic Climbs. You will demonstrate your Teton mettle. Climb to the top of the Buttress, but don’t go down that tempting gully. Who knows where you will end up at the end of the rope! I still remember how angry the GTNP ranger was when we checked in less than one day overdue. I am confident they occasionally bivied on their long climbs too.


asmrz - Sep 5, 2011 1:54 pm

The Complete DSB, V+, 5.8, A1

Bill Krause and I climbed this mega-classic and historic route in 1987. Bill told me about this being one of the longest mountaineering routes in the lower US, if you go all the way to the summit of Mt. Moran. I recall thinking how well the route was put together, because on both sides of it, is much more difficult rock. The line weaves its way among very steep, technical terrain. We thought at the time, that this was truly Classic Teton Alpine Climb. We found the rating about IV+, 5.8, A1, there was no difficult aid on it. We used BD Stoppers to aid the hard (5.12) section. Once past the top of the buttress, the climbing is never harder than 5.7, but many roped pitches and a lot of scrambling is required to reach the summit. If you go all the way to the summit (recommended and Grade V+) take a three day permit, especially if you are not very familiar with Tetons backcountry. Superb, quality route in great alpine setting.


reboyles - Mar 1, 2010 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1979

Classic  Sucess!

Curt Olson and I did this fine route and then descended the Blackfin Route which I had climbed with Mike Weber a few years earlier. Knowing where the Blackfin goes was a big help. I think we did 6 or 7 full length rappels to get off.

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