Direct South Face Climber's Log

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Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Aug 30, 2020 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 1980

Longest route I'd done at the time!   Sucess!

Climbed this with Gary Hinton. The route is a classic Fred Beckey adventure route. That's it's charm. Fred found a moderate way up a giant wall long before anyone else. For us it was a fun adventure at the time - I'd only been climbing 4 years. If you want something cleaner ( cleaner = harder ), try Bastille Buttress.


asmrz - Apr 19, 2014 6:20 pm

4 times so far..  Sucess!

Ok, time to come clean regarding my climbs of this route.

1982-1983 with Robert Somoano overnighter was the first time.

Second time with Peter Green in September 1992 in one long thirsty day.

Third time in March of 1993, with Peter Green, First Winter Ascent, two days.

Fourth time cc. 2000 in 14-15 hours CTC with Michael Gordon.

My wife Penelope wants to climb the route and is considering taking me with her. So I might do it again soon.

Regarding the route quality, yes it has all the things people have described bellow, but the route is almost 2,600 feet in length, has some fantastic views of one of the grand big walls in the Sierra (The South Face of L.P.P.) and the climbing is easy enough for most weekenders. It is a mountaineering route, not a rock climb. So be prepared for all that you heard about but don't forget to have fun.

BTW If you study the many variations done to the original route, you can avoid a lot of the "bad" stuff. From the Winter Route Notch, taking the "Land of Little Rain" and finishing via the "Hand Crack Variation" instead of the ugly Tension Traverse makes the climb IV+, 5.8. and much cleaner than the original outing.


chris_r - Oct 31, 2011 6:41 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008

Not so bad, really.   Sucess!

This route sometimes gets a bad rap for having bushes, ants, and loose stuff, all of which DO occur on the route, so if you're looking fo a sanitized gym climbing experience, this one's not for you. But basically, it's an OK route. We did it car to car in about 12 hours, simul-climbed most of it. Found it mostly enjoyable, with the exception of a couple of ant bites and some really loose shit on the first couple of roped pitches. The tension traverse upstairs is totally unnecessary, so it all goes free at 5.9-. There is one 5.6 face pitch about halfway up which has several bolts added, seemed unnecessary. The RJ secor description is a bit off key for this one.


DustysDawg - Jul 13, 2006 4:22 am Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006

Crap  Sucess!

Did it with Steve. And I second the comments he posted below. I think it was 14:45 car to car. We both agree that it is the worst climb that we have done in the Sierra.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Jun 5, 2006 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006

Ugh.  Sucess!

Climbed this in a day with my friend Brian. We both hated it. I think it's a contrived line with low-quality technical climbing interspersed with way too much scrambling. Kind of chossy, if you ask me. We were glad to get off it. Did I say I don't like bushes? Way too many bushes on this climb, too. Just a pet peeve. If you like bushes and dirty chimneys, this is your climb.


physics - May 11, 2006 3:59 pm Date Climbed: May 6, 2006

Direct South Face  Sucess!

climbed with poorboy44; took 9 roped pitches to gain the ridge and 2 more to up-over the ridge. fun climb but unenjoyable descent down the E. slopes. if you do this, try not to get sidetracked with other crack systems ... "I prefer to climb on route" - Scotty


poorboy44 - May 9, 2006 4:49 pm Date Climbed: May 6, 2006

Direct South Face  Sucess!

With Kurt Hafer. Got off route at the start and climbed some scary loose stuff. Make sure to climb the main corner system just like Craig's topo says. We bivied, but this route can be done in a day (about 10 pitches). Estimate 2-4 hours approach, 6-8 hours climbing time, 3-4 hours descent time. Use the Land of Little Rain variation for the final few pitches.

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