Direttissima sud alla vetta occidentale

Page Type
Route
Location:
Abruzzo, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
In Summer Some passages of II+ In Winter 45-50° snow
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 8 Votes

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Direttissima sud alla vetta occidentale
Created On: Oct 1, 2003
Last Edited On: Oct 3, 2010

First ascension

G. Acitelli , O. Guarlerzi , C. Gavini e V. Rebaudi 26 august 1892
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Gran Sasso pioneers: Francesco Acitelli

Approach

Ascending to Rifugio



From the hotel of Campo Imperatore (2120 mt) follow the mule-track that coasts along the observatory.
Left the path that conducts to Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi, divert to the right in a path to half coast that conducts with zigzag to the Sella of M. Aquila.(2335 mt).


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Corno grande from Duca degli Abruzzi

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It is not necessary but if you want to stay overnight on the mountain you can reach the the Rifugio where during summer it is possible to sleep and to eat Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi
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Inside the Rifugio

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Descending Normal Route of Corno Grande






Route Description

The "direttissima" is an easy climbing itinerary with passages on rock of I and II degree and some spots exposed. Alpine difficulties are modest, but the strong exposure could frighten excursionists gotten not used to the climb. once undertaken the slope it is rather complicated to return back (to scramble in descent is very more difficulty that to climb), therefore it is advisable to appraise well your own abilities and eventually to be accompanied by someone who knowes the route.
The key passageIn the Key passage the exposure could frighten excursionists. A rope can be useful

The route is very frequented therefore, despite the good general quality of the rock, the fall of stones is not rare provoked by the people that some about ten meters they are found more aloft. Even if not obligatory the helmet is surely advisable.

The Direttissima, pointed out by trail sign with green triangle, goes on, approximately, on the vertical one of the "Sassone"(2500m) up to the Vetta Occidentale.



Green mark on DirettissimaThe green arrow shows the way




Direttissima route



Direttissima First partIn the first part of Direttissima


After 60 meters, arrived to an alternative (2620 meters), you skip the trace that goes toward right to the Bivacco Bafile. Climb following the green signals.
Cross a small channel with easy jumps of rock.
Aloft, crossroad toward right and enter , overcoming a small coast, in another channel up to the peak.
Descending the Normal RouteDescending the Normal Route. This way is very crowded and in very bad conditions. As you can see it is like a procession with a real danger of falling stones



The descent for the normal route is subject to different variations of run. A possibility is that to follow the western crest up to rejoin to him with the path n.3 that brings to sella di Monte Aquila (alternative among path n.3 and n.4 met during the slope).


Essential Gear

Direttissima sud to Vetta...
Climbing on Direttissima
In summer a rope can be useful as an aid for beginners .
In winter ice-axe and crampoons are necessary and a rope is reccomended
Helmet is always useful - If the way is crowded pay attention to stones-falls
Climbing on  direttissima  in...

Meteo

Meteo di Campo Imperatore








Direttissima sud alla vetta occidentale

Route
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Geography

Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Italy

Parents

Corno GrandeRoutes