Page Type Page Type: Area/Range
Location Lat/Lon: 46.26758°N / 9.75137°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling, Skiing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 12067 ft / 3678 m
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What's New on this Page?

* Jan 6, 2023 - Ownership switched by Antonio Giani
* Jan 6, 2023 - Page under review
* Jan 9, 2023 - Overhaul of the page


This small mountain group, part of the Rhaetian Alps, takes its name from the highest mountain part of it, the Monte Disgrazia.  Although small and with a limited number of peaks, this group from the geological and geographic point of is quite different from the proper group Val Masino/Bergell, recognizable in reason of its famous high quality granite. In fact the Disgrazia group with all the ramifications is too distant and too different in geological composition to be part of it. So, with the name Disgrazia Group it's indicated the whole complex of peaks amongst the Val Masino (West), the Valtellina (South) and the Valmalenco (North-East). The limit for the North-West side is the Passo di Mello (2.992m), which is the lower elevation and wherefrom the Val Masino Alps begin. Monte Disgrazia is composed of 4 main ridges, which are divided into several branches, including many smaller peaks and glaciers.


Disgrazia group from east
Disgrazia group from east

North ridge

The most charming of the group. It is placed between the Disgrazia Glacier and the Glacier of Ventina. It has 2 more branches in the east side, that enclose the small "glacier della Vergine". The upper part of the ridge hosts the famous route" Corda Molla". Main summits:

  • Punta Kennedy (3.283m)
  • Pizzo Ventina (3.261m)
Pizzo Ventina dal passo...
Monte Disgrazia seen from...
Disgrazia e pizzo Ventina

East ridge

The crest developes southeast and then bend toward northeast. Its northern side surrounds the glacier of Ventina, while its southern side is now almost completely devoid of ice, facing the Valtellina with large rocky cliffs. It is the largest part of the group, and with the most mountaineering interests. Main summits:

  • Pizzo Cassandra (3.226m)
  • Punta Giumellino (3.094m)
  • Cima Sassera (2.977m)
  • Pizzo Rachele (2.998m)
  • Cima del Duca (2.968m)
Ventina - Disgrazia
Ghiacciaio Ventina superiore
Pizzo e passo Cassandra

South ridge

This side of the group is very wild and not very popular, especially for the bad quality rocks. It overhangs the Valtellina and divides the valley of Airale from the Valley of Predarossa. The "Cornarossa" pass (2.836m), that connects the two valleys, is the transit point of the "Sentiero Italia". Main summits:

  • Cima di Cornarossa (3.180m)
  • Corni Bruciati (3.114m)
I Corni Bruciati.
Monte Disgrazia 3678m
Corni Bruciati from Punta...

West ridge

This section covers the entire west side of the group. It begins as a single ridge that descends from the summit of Monte Disgrazia, untill the Monte Pioda. From here the ridge is divided in the shape of a Y. The northwestern branch takes shortly to Passo di Mello, and then to Monte Sissone, and it divides the Valmalenco from the Valmasino. While the southwest branch, is composed by a long ridge between the Valmasino and Predarossa Valley, culminating with the Summit of Arcanzo. It isn't commonly climbed, and crossed only by Bocchetta Roma (2.898m). Main summits:

  • Monte Pioda (3.431m)
  • Punta della Remoluzza (2.814m)
  • Punta dell'Averta (2.853m)
  • Cima d'Arcanzo (2.714m)
Monte Disgrazia and Monte Pioda
Val Sissone
The head of Val del Ferro.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

Huts and other accomodation

The Oggioni hutte at 3150 m...
Bivacco Oggioni at 3150 m






- Ref. GERLI PORRO (E) Alpe Ventina (1.965m) tel. 0342/451404. From Chiareggio 1h'30 hours
- Ref. BOSIO (E) Alpe Airale (2.089m) tel. 0342/451655. From Ciappanico 2h'00
- Ref. DEL GRANDE CAMERINI (E) Cresta di Vazzeda (2.660m) tel.0342/556010. From Chiareggio 2h'30
- Ref. PONTI (E) Alpe Preda Rossa (2.559m), places 85 Tel. 0342-640138. From Piano di Preda Rossa 2h'00
- Biv. TAVEGGIA (F) Sentinella della Vergina (2.894m). From ref. Porro 3h'00/4h'00
- Biv. OGGIONI (PD) Colletto Disgrazia (3.151m). From biv. Taveggia in 1h'30
- Biv. RAUZI (AD+)  Cima Disgrazia (3.640m). From biv. Oggioni in 5h'00/7h'00
- Biv. ODELLO GRANDORI (PD/E) Passo di Mello (2.992m). From Chiareggio in 4h'00/5h'00 or from Mello in 5h'00
- Biv. KIMA (E) Head od Val di Mello (2.700m). From Mello in 5h'00. (brand new, but placed in a not very useful position).







Mont Gelè North face
Rifugio Ponti
Mt. Gelé
Rifugio "Del Grande-Camerini"- courtesy of CAI Sovico
Mont Gelè
Rifugio Ventina
Mont Gelè North face
Rifugio Porro
Mt. Gelé
Bivacco Rauzi - Courtesy of:
Mont Gelè
Bivacco Taveggia

Mountain condition


Guidebooks and maps


Disgràzia guidebook

“Masino – Bregaglia – Disgrazia Vol. II” by Aldo Bonacossa – Giovanni Rossi – Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I.-T.C.I.


- Kompass n° 92 "Bernina - Sondrio" 1:50.000

- Multigraphic “Pizzo Bernina – Monte Disgrazia”

- CNS “Monte Disgrazia” 1:50.000



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Val Masino AlpsAreas & Ranges