Alpine direct of the obvious dogleg couloir
Hike out east glacier trail, cross the river and up you go.
Cross the river then start up to the obvious snow/ice apron.
Do not attempt if there are heavy snow loads, this route is a funnel with a narrows choke in the middle.
Found blue ice in the apron, alpine snow/ice up to a choke, continue climbing through the choke, take care of snow conditions on the exit of the couloir.
The descent is easiest heading down the west ridge from the summit then rappeling through the trees back to the river (grade II downclimbing...).
Ice axes, crampons, rope, descending device
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