Drive 0.95 miles up BCC from the neon sign and either park at the Dogwood Picnic Area ($4.00) or park on a pullout alongside the road just past the picnic area and walk into Dogwood. After crossing the bridge, walk upstream until the cliffs are encountered.
To reach the routes at the east end of the cliffs, follow a climbers trail up and around the cliffs. Hike upstream until you can hike down through breaks in the cliffs.
Not every route has anchors on the top, but nearby natural anchors make it possible to rappel easily from the top. All routes can be walked off.
Dogwood Crag is the wall of quartzite rising directly out of the Big Cottonwood Canyon stream on its south side. The wall leans back at a kinder angle as one travels west, making the slick, water polished holds climbable.
The site is popular due to the abundant shade and quick approach.
|Route ||Difficulty ||Rating ||FA ||Trad/Sport |
|Life During Wartime ||5.8 R || ||1984, Stuart Ruckman ||Tr|
|This Ain't No Party, This Ain't No Disco ||5.11d || ||1984, Bret Ruckman & Gary Olsen ||Tr|
|Cross-Eyed And Painless ||5.13a || ||1989, Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas ||Sp|
|Little Creatures ||5.11c || ||1986, Conrad Anker & Doug Heinrich ||Tr|
|Little Critters ||5.6 || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|Hyper-Gamma Spaces/td> ||5.9 R || ||1984, Gary Olsen & Bret Ruckman ||Tr|
|A Modest Man from Mandrake ||5.9 || ||1990, Stuart & Bret Ruckman, Libby Ellis ||Sp|
|The Lion of Zion ||5.6 || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|I Think I'm Going Bald ||5.9- || ||1990, Stuart Ruckman & Theron McNeely ||Sp|
|Haven't A Clue ||5.8 || ||1991, Shane Willet & Mike Carnaham ||Sp|
|On The Skids ||5.8 || ||1990, Stuart Ruckman & Theron McNeely ||Sp|
|Take Me To The River ||5.7 || ||1983, Bret Ruckman & Merrill Bitter ||Tr|
|Bebop Arete ||5.10 || ||mid 70s, Jim Dockery & Lynn Wheeler ||Tr|
|Alpenblock Route ||5.6 || ||1964, Bob Springmeyer, Milt Hokanson, & Ted Wilson ||Tr|
|Note: The last two routes are located north of a pullout 1.15 miles up from the Neon Sign, on the north side of the canyon.|
|Route overview information used from Stuart & Bret Ruckman's Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range. In depth information is from personal experience|
A Modest Man From Mandrake - 5.9
Walk along the climbers trail above the cliffs 'till you encounter a beak in them. Hike down to the river and backtrack downstream. After passing a deep chimney, there is a broad ledge that rises from the ground. The route starts at the first point where this ledge levels off. The route can be rapped from above is so desired. Climbing is on a smooth face with lots of ending and friction moves. The overhang at the top provides the crux for the route.
Take Me To The River - 5.7
This route has many variations and is usually top roped since protection is tricky if not non-existent. The route ascends any good line on the western-most end of Dogwood Crag. Some variations can use bolted chains at the top, while other require anchoring off of trees up above.
Slings for bolted and natural anchors are all that are essential. The routes can all be top-roped. A full set of quickdraws can be used for a few of the sport routes. I don't know what gear would be appropriate for the trad routes.
If you have additional info for routes described or have done a route not described in depth, please put the info here and I'll integrate it into the page!