This route was the first route established at the Spires and is an area classic....one not to be misses. Once at the base of the First Spire, scramble along its base to the left and down a brush covered slope. Do NOT go all the way to the far left. Yet, locate a left facing corner with a beautiful crack running up its length for about 60 feet. There is a decent spot to rope up before heading up the route. Reference the posted photo topo of the Jacuzzi Spires on this route page. The RED line is 'Don't Bug Me' (5.6+).
Pitch-By-PitchPitch #1, 85':
Slab climb up for 10' before reaching the crack within the left facing corner. Excellent hand and fist jams for the next 40' before reaching a ledge. Traverse to the right 15', passing a superfluous bolt along the way. Set up a anchor belay near an adjoining corner system, which faces right. Don't go too far around to the corner system since this will create rope drag. (Pro to 3")
Pitch #2, 110':
Climb up the right facing corner/dihedral (5.6+), passing a small bushy tree on your right. Continue above, following a steep yet fun crack to a "rooster's ledge" on the left side of the spire's face. Set an anchor belay here. You may have to find creative pro placements since there are limited spots on the ledge. (Pro to 3")
Pitch #3, 130':
From the ledge, make an exposed traverse to the right onto a foot ledge for roughly 20' to 25'. Locate a beautiful hand crack leading up for 30' then slightly trending left up a wider crack (pro to 3.5"). You'll find a variety of sizes on this pitch, from fingers to fist. This is the Glory Pitch! Continue up the wide crack to a sloping shoulder. 4th class to the summit from this point. The summit has two bolt anchors with chains.
Make an airy rappel off the north side using the chained anchors provided. A single 60 meter rope will reach the ground, with 10 feet to spare. Be advised, this is a free hanging rappel. Be sure to always place knots at the tails of the rope! Once on the ground, make a loose scramble along the spire's east side down a faint descent trail and eventually to the base.
- (1) 60 meter rope
- 8 to 10 slings with carabiners
- Pro to 3.5" (small to medium nuts helpful at belays and on Pitch #3)
- Bring plenty of WATER!