Dorées (Aiguilles)

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.98410°N / 7.03300°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 11545 ft / 3519 m
Sign the Climber's Log


The Aiguilles Dorées is a set of summits stretching from W-E at the top of the Plateau de Trient and across from the Cabane de Trient, between Grande Fourche in the west and Portalet in the east.

There are multitudes of routes on either the North side or the south side allthough the traverse of all or half of the 2km ridge is usually the most common choice of visit. There is a short N. facing couloir about 2/3rds of the way along that can be used as an escape route or starting point.

Sunrise over  Aiguilles Dorées
Sunrise over Aiguilles Dorées

From the left to the right : Point 3325,Col Droit,Tête Crettez, Aiguille Javelle, Le Trident, Col Copt, Aiguille Sans Nom, Tête Biselx, Aiguilles Penchées, Aiguille de la Varape

The most important needles are :
- Aiguille de la Fenêtre
- Aiguille de la Varappe W summit 3516 m
- Aiguille de la Varappe E summit 3519 m, highest point
- Aiguille Penchée W summit 3504 m
- Aiguille Penchée Central summit 3405 m
- Aiguille Penchée E summit 3490 m
- Pointe Fynn 3450 m
- Tête Biselx 3509 m
- Aiguille Sans Nom 3444 m
- Le Trident 3436 m
- Aiguille Javelle 3435 m
- Tête Crettez 3419 m

Getting There

You will need to get to Martigny,  then follow the road first to Sambrancher then to Orsieres and to Champex lac, if you are coming from Italy or the Grand St. Bernard area you will only have to head for Orsieres than Champex Lac. Once in Champex head for the Chairlift, once at the top of the chairlift follow the trail that will first pass the Cabane d'Orny and than continue on the Glacier to the Cabane de Trient.

Red Tape

Virtually no red tape. Find a parking - take the lift - walk - hut - sleep - climb - rest.

When To Climb

It is usually done in the summer months when the days are long. Winter would make it considerably more difficult.

Important routes

1) W - E traverse
9 h from Trient hut

2) E - W traverse
6,5 h from Trient hut

3) Tête Crettez + Aiguille Javelle + Trident (les "trois pointes")
4,5 h from Tient hut

4) Aiguille Sans Nom, S ridge
5 h from Trient hut

5) Aiguille de la Varappe, SW face (Eole danza per noi)
6,5 h from Trient hut

6) Copt couloir
In the past a nice ice route. Today acute danger of stone fall.

Aiguille de la Varappe

Fantastic orange granit "swiss made" characterizes the Varappe needle, also called the Grand Capucin of the poor person.

Routes :

1- Route 1896
H. Dupont et G.B.P. Hochreutiner, 1896.

2 - ???
1st ascent : unknown
TD+, 400 m., A1.

2a - La chevauchée fantastique

3 - Et je suis le vent
P. Gravante, L. Monnet, M. Piola, 1990, 11 rope length.
ED-, 400 m

4 - Face au large
F. Desplan, P. Gravante, L. Monnet, M. Piola, 1990
ED, 400 m.

5 - ???
First ascent : unknown
ED, 400 m.

6 - Eole danza per noi
P. Gravante, M. Piola, 1990
TD+, 400 m

6a - C'est Mozart qu'on assassine

7 - Arête sud
A. Crettex, F. Sandoz, 1897.
D+, 400

8 - Ananas
F. Devouassoud, M. Ravanel, 1987.
TD, 400 m

8a - Les chants du Midi
400 m

8b - Les Strapontins du Paradis

9 - Papillons sereins
F. Devouassoud, M. Ravanel, 1987.
TD, 450 m

10 - Face sud-est
M.Barrard, G. Moyer, 1969.
TD, 450 m.

11- Voie du grand couloir
V.A. Fynn, 1893
D, 450 m.

12 - Le sud, le soleil, la plage, les palmiers...
F. Desplan, L. Monnet, M. Piola, 1990.
ED, 400 m.

13 - Voie de l'écharpe
E. Bornand, A. Crettex, G. Roehring, 1902.

14 - Voie des Genevois
M. Dandelot, D. Rochat, 1978.
TD, 350 m.

Aiguille Sans Nom

1 - Arête sud
G. Formaz, C. Vouilloz, 1961.
D, 300 m

2 - A la recherche du temps perdu
L. Abbet, M. Braun, 1978.
ED, 200 m.

3 - Du vent dans les voiles
G. Hopfgartner, M. Piola, 1989
ED+, 300 m

4 - Voie des Japonais
J.-L. Coquoz, B. Gross, J. Hauser, J.-P. Hiroz, 1973,
TD+, 300 m.

5 - Don Quichotte
W. Josi, V. von Kaenel, 1987
ED-, 300 m.

6 - Passe-Partout
L. Abbet, B. Dorsat, B. Totnay, 1980.
AD, 300 m.

Tête Biselx

- Original Route - Y and M Vaucher, 2 July 1964. Winter: P Froidevaux
UIAA 4 - 10 h

- NNE face - G Genoud, D and J Troillet, 1 July 1972
UIAA 4 - 6 h

- Dianetic - C and Y Remy, 28 July 1983
UIAA 6+ - 5 h


Orny Hut

Trient Hut

Envers des Dorées Biwak

Mountain Conditions


Meteo Wallis 

Meteo Chamonix

Climbing History

Tête Crettez : Ed. Jeanneret-Perret + Ed. Wasserfallen + guide P. L. Délez - 1/8/1876

Aiguille Javelle : Egon Hessling + guides Adrien and Onésime Crettez - 6/8/1896

Trident : Edouard Béraneck + Emile Javelle - 1876

First W-E traverse : Valère A. Fynn + William J. Murphy - 30/8/1892

First E-W traverse : Adèle Heiner + Maurice Crettez - 31/8/1898

Aiguille Sans Nom : Guy Formaz + Christophe Vouilloz - 18/9/1961

Aiguille de la Varappe SW face : Pascal Gravante + guide Michel Piola - 20/8/1990

Guidebooks and maps

"Monte Bianco classico e plaisir" by Marco Romelli - Idea Montagna 

"Schweiz Plaisir West" by Andreas Mürner – Edition Filidor, 2012 

"Schweiz Plaisir West" by Jurg von Kanel – Edition Filidor 

"Entremont Escalades" by Olivier Roduit, 2011 

"Sommets du Mont Blanc: les plus belles courses de F à D" by Jean-Louis Laroche - Florence Lelong, 2010 

"Guide du Valais - du Trient au Nufenen" by Hermann Biner, 1996


IGN 3630OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Swiss National map 1:25 000 Sheet 1345 Orsières

Swiss National map 1:50 000 Sheet 282 Martigny


Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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xray - Nov 1, 2009 5:48 pm - Voted 6/10

Promontoire Aiguilles Sans Nom

Route: Le retour en Afrique - TD /6a 250m Route: Dorees les Ballades - TD /6a 300m

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