hhayashi - Feb 22, 2024 11:17 am Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2024
WInter Northwest Ridge
Great climb in the Winter with expected differences, the big part for me was the absence of a moat :) Also, challenges in finding good anchor points and stable footholds would recommend two axes. Rocks were clear of ice so cams worked but this could change depending on conditions.
johndinh - Jul 17, 2023 9:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2023
First time at summit of Dorado needle
Went up McCallister glacier, slight variation on the first pitch. Was lowered down the rappel route.
Jake Robinson - Jul 19, 2017 3:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2017
NW ridge
W/ Fletcher. Snow-finger was out, so we went around to the west side and did 2 short pitches to reach the standard route. Easy climbing and beautiful views. Went to Eldorado next.
gimpilator - Jul 16, 2017 1:14 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2017
Josh Lewis - May 24, 2016 1:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2015
North Ridge
The most interesting summit ending of all the peaks of the Inspiration Traverse. It's not as bad as it looks, but is a bit exciting. Snow bridge onto the peak was a bit thin and was ready to bust, but probably had a few more days of life.
Overall a great peak.
Matt Lemke - Aug 6, 2015 12:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2015
NW Ridge
Awesome scramble up the NW ridge. We packed up from the Eldorado TH and summitted just before sunset. The sunset glow as we returned to our decided camp at the Tepeh Towers col was fantastic. The cheval was cool and the moat crossing wasn't too bad
seano - Aug 15, 2013 10:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2013
North ridge
Super-fun daytrip of Eldorado, Klawatti, and Dorado Needle. Trip report.
fun day trip combining skiing eldo, dorado needle and Dean's spire with Matt, Dave and Oyvind - 15 hrs big day!
I stopped before the cornice covered Au cheval section but Oyvind blazed on given the chance and belay. Looks like it would be a different place in summer.
https://picasaweb.google.com/Riddell30/DoradoNeedleEldorado#
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=20980.0
Great times with fun guys! Thanks boyz
ExcitableBoy - Dec 26, 2010 8:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2005
SW Buttress
Climbed the SW Buttress route. Our plan for an alpine start backfired as we missed the proper col to drop down and wasted 2 1/2 hours going the long way around, although it was very scenic. The route was longer than expected and we ended up biving another night with very little to eat. We cobbled together some cheese soup (cheddar cheese, dry milk, water, spices) which I may remember for the rest of my life.
iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 5:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2009
No helo-rescues please
The day we rolled into this area a climber had fallen and got choppered out as we set up camp. His partner ran back alone to get help - a 2 day hike made in one - and saved his life. That left us alone for all but the last of 8 days on the Inspiration Glacier. Our Summit of the Dorado Needle was the epic climb of the week, as the snow moat gap was 12+ feet and 200+ feet deep in the front, so we went around the back north side. I led our team through the "eye" of the needle to summit. One of the best raps down from a summit in the NW, and McAllister Glacier is beyond beautiful too.
This was an interesting climb done right after Eldorado Peak. The ascent was up a modified path on the northwest ridge (starting more on the east face) and lead to a knife edge rock traverse to obtain the summit.
hhayashi - Feb 22, 2024 11:17 am Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2024
WInter Northwest RidgeGreat climb in the Winter with expected differences, the big part for me was the absence of a moat :) Also, challenges in finding good anchor points and stable footholds would recommend two axes. Rocks were clear of ice so cams worked but this could change depending on conditions.
johndinh - Jul 17, 2023 9:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2023
First time at summit of Dorado needleWent up McCallister glacier, slight variation on the first pitch. Was lowered down the rappel route.
Jake Robinson - Jul 19, 2017 3:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2017
NW ridgeW/ Fletcher. Snow-finger was out, so we went around to the west side and did 2 short pitches to reach the standard route. Easy climbing and beautiful views. Went to Eldorado next.
gimpilator - Jul 16, 2017 1:14 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2017
Inspiration TraverseThanks for going back Josh! Trip report
Josh Lewis - May 24, 2016 1:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2015
North RidgeThe most interesting summit ending of all the peaks of the Inspiration Traverse. It's not as bad as it looks, but is a bit exciting. Snow bridge onto the peak was a bit thin and was ready to bust, but probably had a few more days of life.
Overall a great peak.
Matt Lemke - Aug 6, 2015 12:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2015
NW RidgeAwesome scramble up the NW ridge. We packed up from the Eldorado TH and summitted just before sunset. The sunset glow as we returned to our decided camp at the Tepeh Towers col was fantastic. The cheval was cool and the moat crossing wasn't too bad
seano - Aug 15, 2013 10:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2013
North ridgeSuper-fun daytrip of Eldorado, Klawatti, and Dorado Needle. Trip report.
Vinny - Jun 9, 2011 1:16 pm
ski ascentfun day trip combining skiing eldo, dorado needle and Dean's spire with Matt, Dave and Oyvind - 15 hrs big day!
I stopped before the cornice covered Au cheval section but Oyvind blazed on given the chance and belay. Looks like it would be a different place in summer.
https://picasaweb.google.com/Riddell30/DoradoNeedleEldorado#
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=20980.0
Great times with fun guys! Thanks boyz
ExcitableBoy - Dec 26, 2010 8:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2005
SW ButtressClimbed the SW Buttress route. Our plan for an alpine start backfired as we missed the proper col to drop down and wasted 2 1/2 hours going the long way around, although it was very scenic. The route was longer than expected and we ended up biving another night with very little to eat. We cobbled together some cheese soup (cheddar cheese, dry milk, water, spices) which I may remember for the rest of my life.
iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 5:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2009
No helo-rescues pleaseThe day we rolled into this area a climber had fallen and got choppered out as we set up camp. His partner ran back alone to get help - a 2 day hike made in one - and saved his life. That left us alone for all but the last of 8 days on the Inspiration Glacier. Our Summit of the Dorado Needle was the epic climb of the week, as the snow moat gap was 12+ feet and 200+ feet deep in the front, so we went around the back north side. I led our team through the "eye" of the needle to summit. One of the best raps down from a summit in the NW, and McAllister Glacier is beyond beautiful too.
Tsuyoshi - Nov 17, 2008 2:41 am
Northwest Ridgeexcellent climb except for the 6 foot leap across the moat onto a wet and slippery rock.
Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:23 am
NW ridgeMacAllister Glacier is a beauty!
rkymtn - Jul 20, 2006 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2006
Route Climbed: Northwest RidgeThis was an interesting climb done right after Eldorado Peak. The ascent was up a modified path on the northwest ridge (starting more on the east face) and lead to a knife edge rock traverse to obtain the summit.