Dos Equis Wall, 5.7-5.12b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
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Dos Equis Wall, 5.7-5.12b
Created On: Mar 6, 2012
Last Edited On: Feb 16, 2018

Overview/Approach

 

Scareway, 5.10b

Dow leading Scareway for the umpteenth time..

Thus far, my favorite route in Indian Cove (excluding Rattlesnake Canyon) is Scareway (5.10b) (Alan Nelson). Scareway is located on probably the steepest and tallest wall at Indian Cove, Dos Equis, which is adjacent to the west campground area. Dos Equis offers some of the better moderate to hard ((70’-80’ and sustained) routes at Indian Cove including three multi-starred routes in Miramontes guide book: Scareway, Roadrunner (5.11b) and Tecate (5.12b). Dos Equis along with its adjoining wall Corona are within short walking distance to the much more common objective, Moosedog Tower.
 

Scareway, 5.10b

 

Scareway consists of a typical Jtree flaring granular crack that challenges your ability to set secure hand jams. It is angular and thus forces balance as well. Towards the top you are rewarded with jugs through a roof. A single rope rap leads down the wall between Tecate and Roadrunner, the other two recommended routes on Dos Equis Wall. This allows you to warm up on Scareway and either top rope Tecate or scout out Tecate and Roadrunner before you lead them. There is a right to left buttress named South Buttress (5.7) that allows a competent party to solo to the before mentioned fixed rap as well. Miramontes makes note of “limited amount of sun midday”, but we found the wall quite inviting on a cold and wet February afternoon (snowed a foot up at Jtree proper the day before, closing the park!).

Enter Indian Cove and turn right for the west campground area (Moosedog Tower). Look for the obvious steep and dark brown wall on your right a short distance along the west campground road. Another short steep section adjoins to the left and is named Corona Wall.

Route Description(s):Routes are listed Right to Left

South Buttress- 5.7*/ A secure solo climb by Jtree standards.  No crack or section is sustained at the grade, most of it is 5th class.  Climb the southeast buttress to the fixed rap (100’) on the summit above Scareway.  Dow

Tres Equis- 5.8/

Scareway- 5.10b**/ One of my favorite pitches in all of Jtree. Scareway consists of a typical flaring granular crack that challenges your ability to get secure hand jams. It is angular and thus forces balance off your right foot. The crux is early. After placing good gear in a pod and mantling up on same, your right foot has no choice but to smear out right while you place insecure jams and move your left foot up the crack. After a few extensions in the flaring crack, you hit much better hands. Then take the left fork above and pull the fun roof on great hand jams and jugs. A single rope rap leads down the wall between Tecate and Roadrunner, the other two recommended routes on Dos Equis Wall Dow

Flare Play- 5.10b*/

Roadrunner (The Highwayman)- 5.11b**/

Tecate- 5.12b**/

Skid Row- 5.10dR*/

Chihuahua- 5.10b*/