Dos Equis

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)

Route Quality: 2 Votes

6074 Hits
79.04% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Dos Equis
Created On: Jan 4, 2007
Last Edited On: Dec 7, 2009

Overview

Dos Equis ascends a water chute on Machete Ridge. Climbing this route requires delicate stemming and counter pressure. Or, in Brad's words: It is only a 5.8, so where are the holds?

In his guide to the Pinnacles, Rubine gives Dos Equis (aka Destiny) three stars. He uses this rating to indicate that a route is a Pinnacles classic, capturing "the spirit of true Pinnacles climbing." In my opinion, Dos Equis is deserves this rating. It is a thoroughly enjoyable route.

The rock on Dos Equis is typical Pinnacles breccia; however, it is pretty solid. I think the route is climbed often enough so there is little loose rock.

Spring and fall are the primary climbing seasons at the Pinnacles. It is possible to climb the route in during hotter weather as it remains shaded during the morning hours.

Machete RidgeMachete Ridge
Dos EquisDos Equis

Getting There

Climber s Access SignSign
From the West Side parking lot take the Balconies Cave Trail. Before you reach the caves, you will see a climber's access sign. Following the directions on the sign, use the climber's trail to reach the base of Dos Equis.

Some descriptions of this route may mention a digger pine near the base. On 1/1/07, I discovered that the tree has fallen down, presumably in a recent wind storm. The tree now makes a nice bench.

Route Description

Dos Equis follows an obvious water chute. There are 4 bolts and a bolted anchor with rappel chains at the top.

Although the route is rated 5.8, it is a serious lead. The terrain is relatively low angle and there are some long run outs between bolts, without the opportunity to place additional protection. While the Rubine guidebook states the route is well protected, the new Young book give the route a 5.8R rating. In either case, a fall could be serious. Before leading the route, you should be comfortable leading at this level.
Dos Equis
Dos Equis
Dos Equis

Essential Gear

Quick draws and gear for building an anchor. A sixty meter rope will allow you to rappel from the anchors.