Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W
Additional Information Route Type: Aid Climbing
Seasons Season: Fall
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: A3, 5.9
Additional Information Grade: III
Sign the Climber's Log


Back in 1989 Liana Kirk and I went over the left side of this roof. Was always curious about the right side. Nearly 20 years later,(it sure doesn't seem that long) went back with Trevor to see what it was about...

Getting There

Yep !! Up and over the Southwest Shoulder. The route is between KIRK-SANDERS WEST FACE CLASSIC and BLADE RUNNER.

Route Description

DOUBLE EDGE BLADE on Devils Tower, Wyoming.
First Ascent, Trevor Bowman and Frank Sanders. October 2008. Great Route. Obvious Line.

Pitch 1. A3(~70 meters). Aid Your way up the crack. Placements become increasingly dificult as You approach the roof.The roof and the next 20 ft are the Crux; thin nailing. Above the crack widens and become more accepting. Trevor elected to take it for all it was worth and "run to the end of the rope". Set a Very Solid Gear Anchor

Pitch 2. A1(100 ft.). Aid up until the crack ends, then swing right & right, up to the Big Ledge and the BIg Bolt Belay that is common to BLUE STEM SKYWAY, HOME AT LAST WYOMING, TUNNEL VISION & SEAMS TO ME

Pitch 3. Its really 5.9?? and Really Dicey. Take the 3rd pitch of ZEPHYR to the summit. This means climbing directly above the huge ledge, towards the obvious ceiling, on the face (5.9). At the ceiling head right to the all-too-obvious loose, wide crack system (5.8?). Tighten Your laces and don't fall. My Heart has rarely beat so Hard. Jim Beyer, You are one heck of a MAN to do the 1st Ascent of this pitch SOLO !!!! We are ALL "Churning in his wake".

Essential Gear

DOUBLE EDGE BLADE on Devils Tower, Wyoming.DOUBLE EDGE BLADE. Devils Tower, Wyoming. Trevor, taking the 1st pitch for all that its worth and running to the end of our 70 mtere rope !!
Standard Aid Rack. Extra Beaks, Blades & Arrows.
Big stuff for the 3rd pitch.

External Links

Photo GalleryAdd External Links text here.