Geographical structure: Eastern Alps
> Julian Alps
> Martuljek group
is pronounced in English Dovshki Gamsovec.
From the left: Rakova spica, Rogljica and Dovski Gamsovec and theirs wild north faces.
is not located in the main ridge of Martuljek group but is located in the secondary ridge that comes from Skrlatica
(2740m), from the NE direction. The ridge goes from Skrlatica over Rakova spica
(2545m), over Rogljica (2547m) that makes with Dolkova spica
(2591m) a beautiful bulk of two peaks which are separated with notch Rdeca skrbina. From Rogljica the ridge finally reaches the summit of Dovski Gamsovec and then over some not very important peaks comes on the top of Kriska stena (wall).
On the north side (NW side) has Dovski Gamsovec wild and powerful face. This face is not soo very popular like the face of neighbour Rogljica and Rakova spica because it is perforated and if you climb in its face you can see many deep abysses. But in the climbing guides you can find many climbing routes in its north face. If you look from Krnica valley or from the famous road on Vrsic pass the north face of Dovski Gamsovec you can easily reacognize it because on the left side of the face it is from the top down a big rock depression. The depression is of the red color.
is hard approachable mountain and you cannot reach it over marked routes. The main approach goes over the SE and E face from the basin Vrtaca that we cross it over the marked route on Skrlatica. From the marked route we turn up to the foothills of the east face of Dovski Gamsovec and over the passages we climb on the top. The difficulty is around UIAA II. You reach the Dovski Gamsovec from the Krnica valley over the ferrata over Kriska stena or from Vrata valley. You can take a possibility from Trenta valley too.
For the foolhardy and obsessed skiers I suggest you that you reach from Krnica valley the foothills of north face and then you will ski over the beautiful slope below the north face of Dovski Gamsovec back to Krnica valley. Very good in the good conditions and nice goal if the slopes below the Kriska stena are full of skiers already.
(Door) is probably the most beautiful alpine valley in Slovenia. It is glacial valley, beginning bellow mighty Triglav and it’s gigantic north wall, spreading towards northeast till Mojstrana village and upper Savska Dolina valley. Powerful creek Triglavska Bistrica runs through it, which source is just bellow Triglav’s Face. Sides of the Vrata valley are very steep and high. Two of the Slovenia’s highest peaks are rising above it. On the north side is Skrlatica
(2740m) while on the south is Triglav
(2864m) and many other above 2500m. View on Triglav’s 1200m high and few kilometers wide north face is one of the most impressive in whole of the Alps!
Starting point of one of the routes is Koca v Krnici hut
(1113m), which lies in Krnica valley. The valley is beautiful, with stunning scenery. All around are some of the highest peaks of Julian Alps that fall into the valley with huge walls: Skrlatica
(2740m), Rakova Spica
(2601m) and Prisojnik
(2547m). Krnica ends with probably most beautiful amphitheater in Julian Alps – Kriska Stena
Hut is accessible from Kranjska Gora
to Vrsic pass road. Junction towards the hut is some 2 kilometers behind Kranjska Gora, just at the bridge where main road crosses over Pisnica river to the right, you continue straight. From the bridge is 3 kilometers to V Klinu pasture where you have to park. From here is 20 more minutes to the hut. If you are on foot from Kranjska Gora you will need 1.30-2h.
Dovski Gamsovec is in the nearness of Skrlatica.
The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora
resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana
. Starting point for Dovski Gamsovec is the valley Krnica or Vrata valley.
If you want to reach Ljubljana by plane check a timetable on the site of Adria Airways
, a national airline.
From Ljubljana buses depart towards Kranjska Gora every 60 minutes.
From Ljubljana trains depart in Kranjska Gora direction quite often but only up to Jesenice town. There you have to change to bus, which come from Ljubljana anyway.
From Ljubljana 84km.
From central Europe via Villach, Austria: Via Karavanke tunnel (around 40km) or Korensko Sedlo pass (around 30km).
From western Europe via Udine, Italy: exit Udine – Villach highway in Tarvisio. Tarvisio – Kranjska Gora – Gozd Martuljek 25km.
For more information how to come here check the Julian Alps
group page and the page of subgroup Martuljek group
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:25000
Normal approach over the east face from Krnica valley
and from Vrata valley
. UIAA II.
S ridge. UIAA II-III.
You can also climb in many climbing routes in the north face of Dovski Gamsovec. The difficulty of the routes is from the easiest to the hardest but there is also many possibilities for new routes!
Dovski Gamsovec is located in Triglavski Narodni park
When To Climb
The best time is from June to September. The best time for skiing in the Krnica valley and below the north face of Dovski Gamsovec is when it is not very high risk of avalanches but the best conditions are immediately
Huts and bivouacsHuts
KOCA V KRNICI
hut (1113m) stands on a small meadow in conifer forest on the bottom of Krnica valley. The valley is surrounded by high peaks: Skrlatica (2740m), Razor (2601m) and Prisojnik (2547m). Opening year was 1933. It is open from May 1st till October 31st, while outside that frame during weekends and holidays. It has 20 beds, water and power from a generator.
POGACNIKOV DOM NA KRISKIH PODIH
hut (2050m) is standing on the edge of Kriski Podi basin, high above the Trenta valley. Kriski Podi are bare rock basin, which is ascending in few steps. At the foothills of those steps lie 3 beautiful alpine lakes: lower, middle and upper Krisko jezero lakes. Area is surrounded from 3 sides by peak. Highest of them is Razor (2601m). The hut was opened in 1951 and named after a Joze Pogacnik whose idea was to build a hut here. Unfortunately he died on the way from Trenta valley to hut opening ceremony. In 1985, near the hut, load aerial ropeway and winter room were built. The hut is open from July 1st till the end of September. It has 67 beds + 16 in winter room, water and electricity from a generator. View from the hut is beautiful towards Trenta valley and Soca River, which shines on the afternoon sun and the wild peaks around.
hut (1015m) is placed in Vrata valley. It is accessible by car, 12km from Mojstrana village, which lies on the main road from Ljubljana to Kranjska Gora resort. It was opened in 1896. In 1909. the hut was destroyed by avalanche. New hut was opened the next year where it stands today. It has 150 beds and is open from beginning of May till the end of October. Winter room has 8 beds. From the hut view is beautiful on the peaks around the valley, which rise wildly above it and especially on Triglav and its North face.
Also there is bivouac on the plateau between Stenar and Dolkova spica.
BIVAK IV NA RUSJU
bivouac (1980m) stands high above Vrata valley, on the slopes bellow Dolkova Spica (2591m) and Stenar (2501m), since 1948. During the 1950/51 winter it was blown away in the storm and ended up some 80 meters away. In 1953 a new one has been built. It is constantly open and has 10 sleeping places, furnace and water reservoir.
Camping inside the Triglav National Park is forbidden. Beside the mountain huts there are plenty of hotels and private apartments in the towns and villages, which surround the area. Here are few links where you can find info on accommodations closer and further away:
Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is bellow the Triglav.
You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica
Some weather informatin can also be found here