Dovski Kriz S ascent

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 46.44110°N / 13.84660°E
Route Type: Scrambling
Season: Summer, Fall
Time Required: Most of a day
Difficulty: UIAA I.
Rock Difficulty: Class 3


The trailhead starts in Vrata valley, on the meadow, named Poldov rovt (cca 900 m).

Route Description

From Poldov rovt you take the west direction. Soon behind the meadow you will find a good hunters path, ascending through woods a bit more than 100 meters. Reaching the area (the edge) of a distinctive ravine Rdeci potok (= Red Creek, it has usually no water) you proceed by it's bottom and by no means follow another hunters path, turning towards NE. Through the shallow valley of Rdeci potok you climb in a NW direction, you can easily follow the path. So you reach the vertical rock barrier over which usually a nice, but weak waterfall is falling. The path leads you by the right side, you climb over a few rocks and cross the slope, reaching just on the upper edge of the waterfall. This is such a beautiful place, that everyone can only hardly resist to take a rest.

Above the waterfall you ascend directly upwards by the long tongue of debris, which you will probably use on a descent. First you go by the right edge, then you cross on the left side and proceed through a beautiful larch area. Reaching out of it you will notice in front of you a sharp peak of Mali Matterhorn (1962 m, just a 100 meters high rock). You ascend yust to the foothills of it (a big cave) and then proceed to the right over scree. On the right side you have all the time fine debris below Splevta. This is the longest scree in Julian Alps and also the finest one. On a descent you will have a comfortable drive down for more than 500 meters (which can take you only 10-15 minutes)!!!

Proceeding by the left side of scree you climb grassy and rocky slopes and reach the Bivouac II (2118m, 3 hours). From the bivouac you turn towards NE, ascend a little bit more and reach the broad flat place, called Na Jezeru (On the Lake). Today, there is no more lake. Now you turn even more eastwards and reach the saddle between Splevta (2272m) and Dovski Kriz. This point can also be reached by the Brinova glava route. From this saddle the direction to the summit is north.

First rocks above the saddle are a bit more steep (easy climbing, I.), you cross them a bit towards right. There you reach steep grassy slopes and proceed directly upwards and at the end cross to the right again a little on the saddle between Dovski Kriz and the side ridge of Kopice. Now you are some 100 meters below the summit. From this grassy saddle you will probably need some orientation skills, if lucky, you will find also stone marks.

First you climb up, but soon you take a ledge to the right, which brings you in the notch below the summit (I. degree). From this notch you proceed either directly by the main ridge or keep a little (but not too much) towards right. Carefully you scramble to the summit.

Essential Gear

Good shoes, poles. For the last rocky part you may need a rope for those mountaineers who are unsecure in a rugged and steep terrain.

Miscellaneous Info

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