Dovski Kriz S ascent

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.44110°N / 13.84660°E
Additional Information Route Type: Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 3
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA I.
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Dovski Kriz from the route on...
Dovški Križ

The normal ascent on Dovški Križ is a great tour which most nicely presents the wilderness of Martuljek group. The alpine scenery and the views from the summit are just fascinating. In addition, you will enjoy a comfortable descent - more than 500 m you will be able to slide down by soft screes.

General Information

Difficulty: Most of the time this is still a hike-up, but quite steep on some places. The route is not marked, so be careful on orientation. Just below the summit shere are scrambling sections and a few short climbing sections of UIAA I difficulty. So, the overall difficulty of the tour would be on the Swiss Hiking Scale graded with T5. Recommended only to experienced hikers and in good conditions.

Slope orientation: The ascent slope is mostly south oriented, But just below the summit there's a short east oriented passage.

Objective dangers: In summer conditions there are not many. The summit rocks are friable and when finding yourselves below the walls of Šplevta, be careful of eventual rockfall.

Best season: Summer months, normally from July till October (or first snow). In winter conditions you will most likely not find this route trudged. Steep sections are very dangerous of avalanches and on the summit part full winter equipment is needed.

Gear: Good, sturdy shoes and poles, good map, for less experienced eventually a short rope.

Tour start: Poldov rovt (meadow), 900 m, in Vrata valley. See the Google map and the parent page how to reach there.

Highest point: 2542 m.

Altitude to overcome: cca 1650 m.

Time for ascent: 4-5 h.

Route Description

Below the waterfall. On the...
Below the waterfall. The needle above is Šplevta

From Poldov rovt you take the western direction. Soon above the meadow, you will find a good hunters path, ascending through the woods a bit more than 100 meters of altitude. Reaching the area (the edge) of a distinctive ravine Rdeči potok (= Red Creek, it has usually no water), you proceed by it's bottom and by no means follow another hunters path, turning towards NE. Through the shallow valley of Rdeči potok you climb in the NW direction, easily following the path. So you reach the vertical rock barrier over which usually a nice, but very weak waterfall is falling.

The path leads you by the right side, you climb over a few rocks and only then cross the slope, reaching just on the upper edge of the waterfall. This is such a beautiful place, that everyone can only hardly resist to take a short rest.

Above the waterfall you ascend directly upwards by the long tongue of debris, which you will probably use on the descent. First you go by the right edge, then you cross on the left side and proceed through a beautiful larch area. Reaching out of it you will notice in front of you a sharp peak of Mali Matterhorn (1962 m, just a 100 meters high rock). You ascend yust to the foothills of it (a big cave) and then proceed to the right over screes. More on the right side, you have all the time fine debris below Šplevta walls. This is the longest scree in Julian Alps and also the finest one. On the descent you will have a comfortable drive down for more than 500 meters (which can take you only 10-15 minutes)!!! Proceeding by the left side of screes you climb grassy and rocky slopes and reach the Bivouac II (2118 m, 3 hours).

On the saddle between the...
On the highest saddle
Scrambling over the grassy...

From the bivouac you turn towards the NE, ascend a little bit more and reach the broad flat place, called Na Jezeru (On the Lake). Today, there is no more lake. Now you turn even more eastwards and reach the saddle between Šplevta (2272 m) and Dovški Križ. This point can also be reached by the Brinova glava route. From this saddle the direction to the summit is north. First rocks above the saddle are a bit more steep (easy climbing, I.), you cross them a bit towards right. There you reach steep grassy slopes and proceed directly upwards and at the end cross a little to the right again, on the small saddle between Dovški Križ and the side ridge of Kopice. Now you are some 100 meters below the summit.

From this grassy saddle you will probably need some orientation skills, if lucky, you will find also ciarns. First you climb up, but soon you take a ledge to the right, which brings you in the notch below the summit (I. degree passage). From this notch you proceed either directly by the main ridge or keep a little (but not too much) towards the right. Carefully you scramble to the summit.



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