Took a 13 year old up there in 3 hrs to the raps.
One move wonder. Mostly .9 os
Another great route in Black Velvet. We did the upper pitches that many people skip, which were also good.
Repeat of both routes with Michael B. Great weekend showing him this combo and climbing Epi the next day, he had done neither. Beautiful night camping near Windy Peak...does not get any better.
Climbed with Justin at the start of a three day weekend in Red Rocks. Great climb! The final two 5.9 pitches were definitely worth the extra time!
Climbed with Katie in perfect weather.
Pitch 4 is the crux and it is short. The slabby moves are well protected with bolts but it is balancey, especially with a mid-size pack. Nothing else on the route was 5.10. Hint: don't place too much pro at the bottom of the pitch.
Our biggest piece was a #3 cam. I'd do the route again without it and I'd probably leave the #2 behind as well. As has been mentioned, there are a lot of bolts and various small cracks all the way up the wall.
This was my second trip up Dream of Wild Turkeys. It had been several years since I did it last and the only thing I remembered from my first experience was the horrible rope drag at the end of some strenuous OW climbing leading to the two hardest crimpy slab moves anywhere.
What a great route. Miguel Carmona and I climbed this mega classic in 1982 and bivied on the descent after we got lost at the top of Black Velvet Peak. Great climbing and a great company.
Best weather I have ever had back here. Perfect really, not too windy, great temp. Anybody not doing pitch 9-10 is missing out, pitch 9 is one of the better pitches. Pitch 7 was crimpy, particularly if you have a bad finger. Thought both traverses were tame, I led those....but the corner starting up pitch 3 was full on, had me huffing and puffing a little. Supertopo has the traverse on P 3 at 5.10, but it is not, it is the corner. The traverse has great feet all the way over to the base of 4. The traverse at 5 was no worries either. The short slab move at the top of 4 was the crux of the route, no question. Pitch 2 was fantastic climbing. I like Sour Mash as much.