Overall a great route. On the whole it's interesting as a bit of a stepping stone between older yam routes and more modern bolting styles.
The bolting is fairly spacey on some pitches, and still partially on what appear to be rusty self drives. Generally the hardest climbing is reasonably protected, with the exception of the span from bolt 1 to 2 on pitch 4, which has significant ledge fall potential at ~5.10.
Strong parties might be comfortable with a single rack from BD .3-2. We were happy to have a double rack from .3-1, with singles in 2&3, and a set of wires. Most pitches require very little trad pro, but in some cases the doubles made things quite a bit more friendly. 16 draws, about half alpine, and 60m half ropes worked well for us.
Guyzo - Sep 25, 2009 12:53 am - Voted 10/10
NiceAnother outstanding page.
Thank you
ski629 - Jun 11, 2022 9:01 am - Hasn't voted
Great route, bold by 'modern mixed' standardsOverall a great route. On the whole it's interesting as a bit of a stepping stone between older yam routes and more modern bolting styles.
The bolting is fairly spacey on some pitches, and still partially on what appear to be rusty self drives. Generally the hardest climbing is reasonably protected, with the exception of the span from bolt 1 to 2 on pitch 4, which has significant ledge fall potential at ~5.10.
Strong parties might be comfortable with a single rack from BD .3-2. We were happy to have a double rack from .3-1, with singles in 2&3, and a set of wires. Most pitches require very little trad pro, but in some cases the doubles made things quite a bit more friendly. 16 draws, about half alpine, and 60m half ropes worked well for us.