Party of two. Two short 5.low rock steps - the first was maybe 5.4 and 20 feet and the 2nd was 5.3 and 10". Kicked out AI 1 with a max angle of around 40-45 degrees. The fun glissade down made up for the slog up.
6/3/17- dreamweaver with adam. unbelievably incredible conditions, primest of prime! we climbed four icefalls, including the crux pitch with two icefalls(!), and circumnavigated a fifth due to thin, unstable ice conditions. great, great day! i should climb this route every year!
5/31/14- wonderful alpine climb with emily and heather. most of the route was snow, and we soloed thru three icy and rock-studded sections, but saw the need to rope up for two, longer, ice steps. the solidly iced-up AI2 crux was thrilling!
a fantastic route in a dramatic setting!
Climbed with Sam, lots of snow still and no ice on the crux steps. Ended up soloing the majority of the route. Descent down the Loft was terrifying!
This was the best day out in the mountains in a long time for me. The conditions made this climb pretty straight forward. We simul-climbed the entire route. 3 of the 4 ice sections were very easy, and the 4th was a bit awkward but very manageable. The hardest part of the day was the downclimb when we got off route before the knife edge on Iron Gates. This route lived up to its reputation.
Too easy -- mostly stepped-out snow with 5 short ice problems. Trip report.
brought lots of gear, felt secure, did not use any of it, it was a great climb
Fun, mellow climb. I was expecting it to be more difficult. We carried a rope and light rack, but they didn't come out of the pack. Very little ice and a lot of snow. Caught delayed descending the slabs and should have came down the loft.
Perfect conditions. Good snow. Some ice at the cruxes. Clear weather. Light wind. Great route.
Sorry to hear about the passing of your good friend, Doug. Anyone who has persistence like that is always missed. Hope you're still getting out.
Probably my favorite climb to date! I love those tight, inset couloirs. A storm that rolled in a couple days prior to made conditions almost perfect for climbing. The views towards Longs were incredible. With Kiefer and a few others.
My good friend and former climbing partner Keith Spencer took me up this during absolutely perfect weather and excellent conditions. It was on or about this date, we both forgot our cameras, and he passed while climbing in Wyoming about 18 months later. He was an extraordinary individual to climb with, which makes this a very memorable climb for me.
This now ranks as one of the best 3 all time favourite climbs. An absolutely killer route. Ice was really inconsistent, brittle and melting fast.
Used 3 chocks (4-6-8) and a #2 and a #3 cam to protect. Ice was too soft for screws and TONS of veriglass.
Roped up for three pitches, free-climbed & belayed everyone else on the last section of difficulties.
Will definately repeat this route!!
You too eh? Those marmots are crafty buggers.
Dreamweaver is one of the most fun and exciting couloirs I have climbed in the last 10 years. Interesting, steep in places, with great views.
6/7/09 - After a warm, sloppy spring finally there was some cold overnight temps and the route had an unexpectedly substantial amount of ice. There were two short mixed rock/ice cruxes that we roped up for and protected with rock pro. The upper narrow section of the couloir also had some nice ice that we climbed unroped. My first "real" experience on ice and I liked it (though I thoroughly appreciated the belays)! As if the incredible climb isn't enough, the views during it are out of this world. A route can't get any more classic. Topped it off with a fun scramble across the Meeker Ridge knife edge and descent through the Iron Gates.
6/2/13 - Prime conditions, much more ice this time! Classic for sure.
Awesome route with multiple interesting rock/ice/mixed bands.
3rd time on this route.. brought a friend up.. route was in good shape..stellar
weather...no gear.. only drawback was to have 2 parties climbing above... felt like
a bowling pin.. not alot of places to hide on this route when stuff starts coming down..
I have climbed this route many times. In good conditions you can go round trip from the parking lot in six hours.
Lotsa fun, nice line for my first solo technical ice line back when - nice water ice at the chockstones. Bivvied below Meeker, wonderfully quiet, excellent weather.