Dreamweaver Climber's Log

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shanahan96

shanahan96 - Jun 1, 2014 6:26 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2014

alpine dream  Sucess!

6/3/17- dreamweaver with adam. unbelievably incredible conditions, primest of prime! we climbed four icefalls, including the crux pitch with two icefalls(!), and circumnavigated a fifth due to thin, unstable ice conditions. great, great day! i should climb this route every year!

5/31/14- wonderful alpine climb with emily and heather. most of the route was snow, and we soloed thru three icy and rock-studded sections, but saw the need to rope up for two, longer, ice steps. the solidly iced-up AI2 crux was thrilling!

a fantastic route in a dramatic setting!

jamie

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - May 22, 2014 10:42 am Date Climbed: May 18, 2014

Fun climb...no ice though  Sucess!

Climbed with Sam, lots of snow still and no ice on the crux steps. Ended up soloing the majority of the route. Descent down the Loft was terrifying!

MattK

MattK - May 31, 2013 12:52 pm Date Climbed: May 21, 2013

Wonderful  Sucess!

Wonderful conditions.

astrobassman

astrobassman - Jun 9, 2012 8:20 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2012

Incredible Climb  Sucess!

This was the best day out in the mountains in a long time for me. The conditions made this climb pretty straight forward. We simul-climbed the entire route. 3 of the 4 ice sections were very easy, and the 4th was a bit awkward but very manageable. The hardest part of the day was the downclimb when we got off route before the knife edge on Iron Gates. This route lived up to its reputation.

seano

seano - May 31, 2012 3:38 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2012

Solo  Sucess!

Too easy -- mostly stepped-out snow with 5 short ice problems. Trip report.

Rockclimber77

Rockclimber77 - Jul 25, 2011 10:19 pm

free solo  Sucess!

brought lots of gear, felt secure, did not use any of it, it was a great climb

JonW

JonW - Jun 14, 2011 9:02 am Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011

Where's the ice?  Sucess!

Fun, mellow climb. I was expecting it to be more difficult. We carried a rope and light rack, but they didn't come out of the pack. Very little ice and a lot of snow. Caught delayed descending the slabs and should have came down the loft.

Ted Eliason

Ted Eliason - Jun 6, 2011 9:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2011

Nice Day  Sucess!

Perfect conditions. Good snow. Some ice at the cruxes. Clear weather. Light wind. Great route.

Kiefer

Kiefer - Sep 19, 2010 3:53 pm

Re: First Technical Ice!

Sorry to hear about the passing of your good friend, Doug. Anyone who has persistence like that is always missed. Hope you're still getting out.

StephanieLynn

StephanieLynn - Sep 16, 2010 6:32 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2010

A dream climb!  Sucess!

Probably my favorite climb to date! I love those tight, inset couloirs. A storm that rolled in a couple days prior to made conditions almost perfect for climbing. The views towards Longs were incredible. With Kiefer and a few others.

DougBenton

DougBenton - Jul 9, 2010 5:06 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2008

First Technical Ice!  Sucess!

My good friend and former climbing partner Keith Spencer took me up this during absolutely perfect weather and excellent conditions. It was on or about this date, we both forgot our cameras, and he passed while climbing in Wyoming about 18 months later. He was an extraordinary individual to climb with, which makes this a very memorable climb for me.

Kiefer

Kiefer - Jun 16, 2010 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2010

Incredible!  Sucess!

This now ranks as one of the best 3 all time favourite climbs. An absolutely killer route. Ice was really inconsistent, brittle and melting fast.
Used 3 chocks (4-6-8) and a #2 and a #3 cam to protect. Ice was too soft for screws and TONS of veriglass.
Roped up for three pitches, free-climbed & belayed everyone else on the last section of difficulties.
Will definately repeat this route!!

Ialewis

Ialewis - Jun 11, 2010 10:54 pm

Re: Run from Black Clouds!

You too eh? Those marmots are crafty buggers.

Darren9

Darren9 - Nov 7, 2009 1:47 am

One of the best  Sucess!

Dreamweaver is one of the most fun and exciting couloirs I have climbed in the last 10 years. Interesting, steep in places, with great views.

SarahThompson

SarahThompson - Jun 7, 2009 6:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2009

Made my spring :)  Sucess!

6/7/09 - After a warm, sloppy spring finally there was some cold overnight temps and the route had an unexpectedly substantial amount of ice. There were two short mixed rock/ice cruxes that we roped up for and protected with rock pro. The upper narrow section of the couloir also had some nice ice that we climbed unroped. My first "real" experience on ice and I liked it (though I thoroughly appreciated the belays)! As if the incredible climb isn't enough, the views during it are out of this world. A route can't get any more classic. Topped it off with a fun scramble across the Meeker Ridge knife edge and descent through the Iron Gates.

6/2/13 - Prime conditions, much more ice this time! Classic for sure.

ChrisHunley

ChrisHunley - Mar 27, 2009 3:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007

Weaving  Sucess!

Awesome route with multiple interesting rock/ice/mixed bands.

ripper333 - Jun 16, 2008 11:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008

y  Sucess!

3rd time on this route.. brought a friend up.. route was in good shape..stellar
weather...no gear.. only drawback was to have 2 parties climbing above... felt like
a bowling pin.. not alot of places to hide on this route when stuff starts coming down..

Ialewis

Ialewis - Jan 22, 2008 10:43 pm

Great Solo!  Sucess!

I have climbed this route many times. In good conditions you can go round trip from the parking lot in six hours.

virginiapine

virginiapine - Jan 15, 2008 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 1992

Fun solo  Sucess!

Lotsa fun, nice line for my first solo technical ice line back when - nice water ice at the chockstones. Bivvied below Meeker, wonderfully quiet, excellent weather.

ClimbandMine

ClimbandMine - Jan 14, 2008 6:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 1998

One of the best

one of the best routes in the state

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