Droites - Ginat: Upper part 
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Droites - Ginat: Upper part

Photo ourtesy of mfeil.com.

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Chamonix Man

Chamonix Man - Jun 5, 2004 4:53 am - Voted 10/10

Protection on the route

I see that you are roped up here - is the couloir solid ice (that would take ice screws) or snow where protection is more difficult?



what do you do when climbing routes like this in hard snow where ice screws will not go in?



Peter

UlrichPrinz

UlrichPrinz - Jul 8, 2004 5:19 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Protection on the route

Hi Peter,

In the Alps, this problem rarely occurs: Snow stakes or Dead-Man achors are not common here.



Typically what you get here is:

* 'gentle' slopes: Angle is <60 degrees: Neve (hard snow): No protection is needed, people feel comfortable without a rope or they don't do the tour.

* steeper faces: Angle >60 degrees: Hard ice allows the use of screws.

I have never seen snow conditions like in Peru here, where there is loose snow on steep faces.

On the droites, we used screws and also Rock pro: a few friends and some nuts.



Regards, Ulli



BTW: The guy on the Photo is not me, it was made by Manfred Feil (RIP)

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