Dufourspitze Climber's Log

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boriskrielen

boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 5:19 am Date Climbed: Oct 5, 2009

W-ridge solo  Sucess!

Climbed it solo, up & down via the W-ridge.

ye2bnik

ye2bnik - Aug 30, 2017 5:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2017

Normal route in very snowy conditions  Sucess!

Start at 4am from Monte Rosa Hut, climbed via Sattel. Total 13 hours. We were first climbers group after over one week of snowing, so had tough conditions especially above 4200m. Full attention and assistance on rocky rigde required due to ice and frozen snow.

Jurgen

Jurgen - Aug 5, 2016 9:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2016

Normal Route  Sucess!

Normal route from the beautifull Monte Rosa Hut. Due to an early season ascent we found perfect conditions and little danger of crevasses.

My 16th Cantonshighpoint of Switzerland.

TheNobleSunfish

TheNobleSunfish - Jul 13, 2016 11:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2016

Perfect Conditions  Sucess!

Dufourspitze by the normal route. Trying to back up the thick ropes which protect the way down to Silbersattel is not particularly effective - rappelling would have been more effective.

fubar7500

fubar7500 - Jul 6, 2016 6:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2016

Monterosa h. - Sattel- Dufouspitze - Silbersattel - Monterosa h.  Sucess!

Long long sunny day, acsending to the summit from Monterosa hutte via Sattel, descending back to the hutte via Silbersattel.
Upper parts of west rigde exposed to wind, not very compact ice/rock.

Kevintheclimber

Kevintheclimber - Aug 27, 2015 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2015

from mont rosa hut  Sucess!

The normal route was a bit harder thanks to the fresh snow, but what an excellent alpine climb.

SarahThompson

SarahThompson - Sep 7, 2013 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2013

West Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the West Ridge from the Monte Rosa Hut. Conditions on the Monte Rosa Glacier were a bit tenuous and I broke into a crevasse up to my thigh in the middle of the night on the ascent! Descended the couloir to the Silbersattel and climbed Nordend before returning to the hut. Bluebird weather. Incredible day.

atavist

atavist - Jul 29, 2013 1:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2013

Warm up  Sucess!

I spent a day in Zermatt waiting for my luggage to catch up from a missed connection in Moscow. Once received I hiked up to camp at Gornegrat. The next day was light as I just moved camp to 3310m above Monte Rosa hut. The following morning I got started at 5:45, made it up to Silberpatter and Nordend (9:20am) before ascending the descent gully to Dufourspitze. I went down the opposite ridge and back to the hut by 2pm. Then back to town same day by 7pm. Good conditions all day.

markhallam

markhallam - Jul 14, 2013 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

Repeat visit  Sucess!

I first climbed Dufour via a tented camp on Swiss normal route 22 years ago, when I turned back from continuing with the harder 'Italian' normal route from Signalkuppe. Funnily enough I had turned back on the same route coming the other way 9 years earlier - in both instances due to poor conditions.
But this time did the Italian route successfully with rgg & Alasdair. Quite a sensational route - and first 'AD' route for me for many a year.

rgg

rgg - Jul 8, 2013 4:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

A beautiful day  Sucess!

On a beautiful day Alistair, Mark and I climbed from the Italian side, starting at Capanna Margherita. The route was in fine shape. There was some snow on the rocks, but it was all pretty solid. The saddle between the Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze, of which I had read some scary stories, was a bit corniced, but not seriously so.
After the climb, we returned ovet the Zumsteinspitze, then descended to the Punta Indren lift station and went down to the valley.

slantycheese

slantycheese - Jun 24, 2013 5:16 am Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2012

My first 4000er! Normal Route  Sucess!

My first ascent of a 4000er - talk about starting at the deep end! An amazing first experience - though there was some fitness lacking, I saw it through to the end with my partner. A 7 hour slog up to the Silber Sattel, with amazing views down into northern Italy, and stunning weather conditions. The small couloir to the Dufour summit adds some flavour to an otherwise monotonous ascent. We also ascended the Nordend to bag the 2nd highest Swiss peak, and then humped down to the Monte Rosa hut.

Leave in plenty of time as the way back to the Roten Boden is a bitch after such a long day, and we just about made the last train home to Bern.

Would liked to have tried from a different hut, as I'm not a huge fan of the big commercial Monte-Rosa hut - more like a hotel, and the food is only standard fare, not nearly as good or as well laid on in other, less well known huts.

More here at - http://www.ansgarschanz.de/dufour.shtml

highpointa - Jun 18, 2013 7:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2012

Via west ridge  Sucess!

Fought firece winds on the west ridge but prevailed while many other parties came undone that day.

Valtho

Valtho - Sep 9, 2012 9:43 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2012

Silbersattel  Sucess!

Due to 1 meter fresh snow a few days before we could only reach the summit via the Silbersattel.

selinunte01

selinunte01 - Aug 24, 2012 10:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012

Normal route  Sucess!

from the usually fully booked new Monte Rosa Hütte. Good conditions up to Sattel, very hard snow and iced rocks on the summit ridge - perfect sunny day. Agony in my feet when walking back to Rotenboden station.

goodwilson

goodwilson - Nov 12, 2011 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011

Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed the peak after Matterhorn

markhallam

markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 1:48 am Date Climbed: Sep 30, 1991

Normal route via tented camp  Sucess!

Climbed this route right at the end of the season, last few days of September that year - very cold, but fantastic views especially down into Italy. Carried full camping gear to the top intending to traverse the mountain, but the ridge was plastered in unstable powder snow so we ended up carrying it all back down the way we came.

Ivona

Ivona - Sep 17, 2010 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010

start from bivy at Utere Plattje

great snow conditions,good weather but very windy and cold day.Me and my colleague Ania reached the ridge and backed from the last snow pitch before the summit because of Ania's problems with frozen hands and feet.Very long way down via deep and big cravesses made impression on us.Mountain worth of coming back

Buthrakaur - Mar 26, 2010 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2009

normal route  Sucess!

Perfect weather, nice climb.

project360

project360 - Oct 14, 2009 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009

Best climb so far...  Sucess!

Perfect night, great climb, I love the mountains

mooliczek

mooliczek - Aug 27, 2009 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009

Normal Route from MRH  Sucess!

We had an incredible luck with only one day of a good weather. Started at 3:30 AM from a bivy at Untere Plattje, we reached the summit 7 hours later. Great snow conditions at start, got bit nasty later on, in the afternoon. The summit ridge was mid-covered with snow, some tough ice found also there. We got back to our bivy at 4 PM. Very satisfied!

Trip report (in Polish) and some pictures from our climb - see here

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