We climbed Dufourspitze via normal route from our tents puttend on 3300 m (above Monte Rosa Hutte). It was a polish day on that mountain becasuse all 4 teams that climbed it via normal route were polish.
Normal route from our camp above the monte rosa hut
Made it to the beginning of the rock above the icy slope around 4500m and had to turn back due to temps of -13C & winds around 100k/hr. We had to turn back the day before much lower down also due to poor conditions. 50cm of fresh snow on the glaciers also made the going a bit more difficult. Despite tough conditions and missing the summit, it was a tremendous climb with unparalleled scenery!
Climbed from a bivouac site a few hundred meters above the Monte Rosa hut. Cold, windy (especially the summit ridge), lots of snow on the summit ridge. Some tricky solo climbing on the ridge. Great views! The weather closed in as soon as I climbed down from the summit.
Started at the Margherita Hut at 3am, reached the summit around 10:30am. The traverse looked dicey, with a lot of snow-covered rock and unprotected moves, which, while easy, were often quite exposed. Long day, but rather exciting.
A wonderful day :-)
Panoramic views from Dufour
Beautiful Skitour to Dufourspitze 4634m.
my picture are here: Link to Dufourspitze 4634m
The ascent was great. 14 of 18 climbers summitted that morning. It took Scott and I 7hrs 15 min to summit from Monte Rosa hut. Most decended down the east side between Nordend and Dufour, though we took the west ridge back due to a traffic jam. The down hill was long but we could glissade a bit. After a beer and some recovery time, we hiked back to Rotenboden to get back to town. The hike back to Rotenboden felt MUCH MUCH longer than on the way to the hut!
Tips: definitely scout out the moraine and crevasses the day before you climb. the path to ob plattje goes straight up through the middle of the moraine. follow the cairns.
I have a much more detailed account, pics, and video of the climb on my blog, though it could be considered a spoiler, your choice. http://gabeharley.blogspot.com
It is a long way from the Monte Rosa hut but the summit is so nice! Descended by the fixed rope on the east face. This contributed to the fun. I don't think the summit ridge is very nice on a windy day.
I have planned this climbing for many years. And every year there was something wrong that did not allowed me to take the challange.
also this year it seemed to be another time the wrong time but....
From Monterosahutte toghether with Daniele and Carlo. 5 hours and 30 min.
Wonderfull day, perfect snow, no wind. We climbed the normal way from Monterosahutte and then we went down by the roops on the Silbersattle side. Very convinient
Windy so the ridge was concerning but the rock on the ascent was good. Very enjoyable
Climbed the SE arete and descended the W arete as part of a single day traverse of Monte Rosa Group from Klein Matterhorn to Nordend.
Nice climb in the last days of the saison. From the Mrainelli-bivouac, across the Marinelli-couloir to the Dufourspitze, then down to Zermatt and hitchhiked back to our car near Mattmark-stausee (near Saas).
Hit&Run from Holland when the conditions where perfect. I climbed with Maarten Pluymaekers.
Ascend via Silbersattel from Monte Rosa Hütte
Climb it from Zumstein, make traverse to the Monte Rosa hut, great day! Second time on the summit.
I climbed normal route of Dufouspitze with my friend Pepe in 2001. In 7 days we climbed Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn. Both very very happy.
The route is very beautiful. Is a complete climb, glacier, rock-ridge, ice-rigge. More beautiful thhan Mont Blanc!
Long exposed tour. After descent we were so exhausted that we decided to stay next night in the hutte.
We were the only ones of 9 parties to summit that day. Wind, cold, sonw, ..... bad, bad, bad day !!!
After a snowfall in the previous evening we woke up at 1:30 a.m. with a perfect weather. We started our way up at 3:30 a.m.. The view in the way up and in the ridge was perfect and the weather conditions were very good but a little windy. Perfect summit day !
With Marius Alba from Romania. We met for the first time the day before summit attack. We did it in 5 hours to the summit. Perfect weather. Nice rocks at the last part before summit. The party at Camping in Zermatt was great :)