Eastern Lyskamm Normal route (East ridge)

Eastern Lyskamm Normal route (East ridge)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.92367°N / 7.83515°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: AD, snow and ice up to 45°
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Lyskamm is a ice capped mountain belonging to the Pennine Alps, Monte Rosa Massif, and located on the Swiss-Italian watershed. Considered by someone as a single mountain, actually Lyskamm consists of two well identified peaks, the Western and the Eastern Lyskamm, separated by a long and sharp ridge. The Eastern summit 4527 m is the highest one. It's the 8th highest mountain in the Alps. Check here the complete list of the 82 alpine Fourthousanders and the 46 minor summits: Club4000

Getting there

Two different road approachs are possible depending if coming from the Valle di Gressoney (Aosta) or from Val Sesia.

Access via Valle di Gressoney (Aosta Valley) - From the A5 Torino – Aosta Highway, exit to Pont St. Martin and take the Valle di Gressoney, getting to Gressoney St. Jean, Gressoney La Trinité and Staffal. From Staffal take the Cable car to Alpe Gabiet – Passo dei Salati - Indren

Access via Val Sesia (Piedmont) - From the A26 Highway exit to Romagnano Sesia and take the road to Varallo Sesia. Here continue following all the Val Sesia road to Alagna Valsesia. From Alagna Valsesia take the Cable car to Pianalunga - Passo dei Salati – Indren

Access to the Rif. Città di Mantova 3498 m and Rif. Gnifetti 3611 m

From Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna or Gressoney) get the Rif. Città di Mantova in 1 hour and Capanna Gnifetti in 1,30 h. In the lower part, it is a marked path (n. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). Climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes) to the hut. To reach the Capanna Gnifetti from the Rifugio Mantova Hut cross the glacier going up over the E-side of the glacier to the N and at the end on the rocks to the Gnifetti hut. This will take up to 30 minutes longer.

 From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.

Route Description

If starting from the Refuge Mantova reach the Capanna Gnifetti. Behind the Gnifetti hut take the usually wide track that usually traces the glacier of the Garstelet on the southern edge of the rocky spur that supports the Capanna Gnifetti. Climb up the Lys glacier on a couple of steeper slopes next to the seracs of the Northern slope of the Pyramid Vincent until you reach the Balmenhorn, on the right in the direction of the ascent, on the top of which it stands the statue of Cristo delle Vette.  Coming in sight of the Lys Col leave to the right the wide track to Punta Gnifetti and head to left reaching  the saddle at the base of Lyskamm Eastern ridge. If the berschgrund (terminal crevasse) allows it, start immediately to climb along the sharp steep ridge (45°), otherwise cross diagonally upwards to reach the ridge, which is always exposed and sharp before getting the Cima della Scoperta 4335 m. From here the ridge become more gentle, but it's necessary to pay close attention to the huge frames that protrude to the South side, until you reach the last steep ridge. in the narrower and more airy sections it is more convenient to lean slightly towards the NE sideThis turns out to be again a steep slope (45°) quite open, where the exposure is not so great as in the first stretch,  but where it's always convenient to pay attention to the frames. In the narrower and more airy sections it is more convenient to keep slightly towards the NE side. After the confluence of the South ridge (Sella ridge) from the left, some short and easy steps on the rock lead to the summit.  From the East summit (the highest) you can continue to the West summit or you descend by the same route.

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, ice pick, crampons.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

Huts

- Rifugio Città di Mantova m. 3470

Situation: Garstelet Glacier Open: from June to September Guardian: Guide di Gressoney Size: 85 persons Winter shelter: 15 persons Phone: +39-0163-78150 / Mobile: +393470802910

- Capanna Gnifetti m. 3611

Situation: Garstelet Glacier Open: from February to April and from June to September Size: 176 persons Winter shelter: 4 persons E-mail: info@rifugimonterosa.it

 

When to climb

 

Best period is from June to September

Meteo

Meteo Valle d'Aosta

Meteo Switzerland

 

Guidebooks and maps

"Il grande libro dei 4000" Marco Romelli, Valentino Cividini - Idea Montagna Editore, 2015

“Tutti i 4000” – L’aria sottile dell’alta quota” – CLUB 4000 CAI TORINO – Vivalda Editori

“The 4000 of the Alps” Richard Goedeke (CAAI) – All the normal routes to the 4000m. summits of the Alps – Libris Edition

“Monte Rosa” Gino Buscaini - Guida dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I.-T.C.I.

 

 

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

Vidar Lund - Aug 2, 2017 8:09 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Route Comment

Did this route a couple of weeks ago. In good conditions it's technically simple but it's scary. My only advice - concentrate on every step, focus your eyes on the path and don't look down! :-)

Viewing: 1-1 of 1


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

LyskammRoutes