E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit

Page Type
Aosta/Wallis (Monte Rosa), Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Steep Basic Snow and Glacier Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day
AD, snow and ice up to 45°

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit
Created On: Sep 26, 2004
Last Edited On: Sep 26, 2004


You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.

You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.

Route Description

From Rif. Gnifetti you cross Lysglacier and ascent to the Lys pass, 4248m.

From here you turn to the NW and the to W and start walking to the Lyskamm. First a slope is not very steep and you get on. Then the slope becomes a ridge and you must be carfeul because the ridge has a lot of cornices but technically is not very hard.

It takes 4 to 5 hours, if the conditions are good. Because of the cornices you often have to move in the steep NE-flank.

From the east summit you can continue to the west summit or you descend by the same route.

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, ice pick, crampons.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Mathias Zehring

Mathias Zehring - Sep 26, 2004 9:58 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

"walk up" does not characterize this climb properly.

According to Goedeke an Waeber it is:

AD, snow and ice up to 45°, very exposed, G4


Bor - Sep 26, 2004 10:02 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Yes I was adding today another route and I forgot that I was adding route on Lyskamm too.

Thanks for warning and have a good one!

Cheers Bor!

Vidar Lund - Aug 2, 2017 8:09 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Route Comment

Did this route a couple of weeks ago. In good conditions it's technically simple but it's scary. My only advice - concentrate on every step, focus your eyes on the path and don't look down! :-)

Viewing: 1-3 of 3

E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit

10 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 3 Additions & Corrections


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