Eagle Face

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
II, 5.4

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Eagle Face
Created On: Jul 12, 2005
Last Edited On: Jul 12, 2005


Apporoach the the same route as te North-Northeast Ridge to the point where N-NE Ridge begins to steepen, traverse left across the Ne side of Norman Clyde Peak to the large, circlular snow patch on the NE face.

Route Description

RJSecor description:
From the upper left hand edge of the snow patch (#1) descibed in the approach section, enter a chimneyabout 100 ft to the right of thr Twilighjt Pillar. Ascend the chimney for 80 ft, then traverse right onto the face and ascend it for several pitches. Cross the face to the left over some loose rock to a small snow patch (#2). Continue climbing up and left over the steep wall to the summit, taking the easiest and safest route.

5.6 Variation:
Instead of climbing of chimney and the slabs to the right of it which maybe icy or covers with late snow (as of July 3, 2005) from upper section of the circlular snow patch at the base of the wall (40 ft right of the Twilight Pillar) ascend the wall aiming towards the overhang. This will cover 2 pitches of 5.6 over excellent rock. The lower portion is class 4. Traverse under the roof to the left and climb the scree and rock to the snow patch #2. Conintue as described in Secor's book.
Ascend the wall the keeping to the right of the false summit. It should be possible to gain the ridge and traverse it to the summit. Caution must be in mind when ascending the grey granit wall as he flakes are pretty unstable and the protection should be placed wisely. Keeping right under the false summit will increase the difficulty to 5.7 and higher + adds problems with protecting the climber.

1) Descend via N-NE Ridge
2) Descend the gully between the prominent chimney (see RJSecor's description) and the N Ridge. Look for the slings with rappel rings and biners.

Essential Gear

Light alpine rack consisting of the set of nuts, hexes, medium size cams. As usual for alpine route take sufficient slings to avoid the rope drag. Double rope may be beneficial.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Eagle Face

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