Eagle-Herbert Ridge Route

Page Type
Route
Location:
Alaska, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
One to two days
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
1

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Eagle-Herbert Ridge Route
Created On: Apr 4, 2018
Last Edited On: Apr 4, 2018


Overview

The Eagle-Herbert Ridge Route starts from the Herbert Glacier Trail Head and it 21 miles roundtrip. The trail can be biked for 4.3 miles, then its on foot the remainder. Follow the Herbert trail 4.9 miles until the terminus of the Herbert Glacier is in view. Climb up the user trail on climbers left until the large flat-ish granite area is reached at mile 7.2. from here head steeply uphill to the North. Before reaching the ridge summit, cut right below a hanging glacier and up the next ridgeline encountered. Then generally head North avoiding crevasses, and negating a short (about 20') 5.6 climb after a longer but easier downclimb. then walk the glacier and head up the the summit. More details are in the Route Description and on the attached .gpx file. 

 Avalanche danger may persist until summer. This route is for experienced mountaineers

Route Overview
Route Overview


Getting There

To access the trail to Earnest Gruening from downtown Juneau, Drive out Glacier Hwy until Mi. 28. The Herbert Glacier Trail is 4.9 miles long and ends at Herbert Glacier.

Route Description

The route starts from the well known Herbert Glacier Trail. Follow the trail (4.3 miles if you bike) 4.9 miles to the end of the maintained trail. From here follow the user trail on climbers left of the glacier to a large flat-ish area with huge pieces of granite bedrock at mile 7.2. There are some Ice Caves in the area that are interesting to explore. 

Ice Caves
Ice Caves

From here the trail goes straight uphill to the North until treeline is broken. Continue uphill until a hanging glacier comes into view on climbers right. 

Crossing below the ice
Crossing below the ice

Cross below the small hanging glacier heading North-East do a dark rust spot on the far side, then turn North and climb all the way to the top of the ridge.

The ridge before the crack
The ridge before the crack

Follow the ridge till it ends in a cliff. Downclimb some easy 5.2 through a crack on the right as you face the summit. Then climb up a 20' 5.6 wall to the top of the ridge. Some webbing and a rope is strongly recommended.  From here continue down the ridge until forced onto the glacier on climbers left. Avoid the ice wall below you by hiking directly away from the summit and going down on more suitable incline, then strait along the top of the hanging glacier to the North side of the summit  block.

Glacier Headwall on exit/enterance
Glacier Headwall on exit/enterance
Glacier on North Side
Glacier on North Side

Avoid more crevasses by continuing North and then moving uphill to the ridge. Continue south on ridge until rock in encountered. An easy 5.3 scramble to the summit with exposure and many loose rocks. 

Looking up at the summit.
Looking up at the summit.


See attached .gpx for an exact route or check out the Juneau Hikes and Summits CalTopo page

Essential Gear

Webbing, a 20m rope, harness, crampons, rappel device, and a few carabiners. In addition dress appropriately. Mountaineering boots or stiff  waterproof boots are necessary and gators help keep your socks dry. Having a SPOT or InReach is a great idea. Bring extra dry/warm stuff.

Summit View
Summit View

External Links

Tongass National Forest









Eagle-Herbert Ridge Route

Route
1 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

View Route on Map MyTopo Map Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Alaska

Parents

Earnest GrueningRoutes