On the direct start, climb the right crack. The left crack with the piton is insecure and difficult. The final chimney pitch in great fun!
Climbed this after bailing on Bugaboo Spire due to ominous weather. We were surely off route to start, climbed past a couple bail anchors. Back on track on p2 (p3 as described here?). Linked p4-5 on 60m, belay on block at top of awesome chimney. Made it back to camp just ahead of incredible storm.
Climbed this with a friend of a friend named Byron. We made fairly short work of the lower pitches which were reasonably straight forward. I tried to work my way out of the chimney pitch but failed which was great as I actually enjoyed this chimney. Great pro, cool moves and wild exposure. Avery cool summit. We were pulling ropes from the first rappel when the skies opened up and unleashed rain like I have never seen. It didn't let up until I was back home in Hinton. What a wild day.
Another memorable trip into the Bugs...with Steve, Jackie, Jo, Adam and Stacy. Quite a few others from Canmore as well. More than half of the climbing population up there to be sure. What a fun route to do with Stacy and one of the most easily recognizable features in the Bugs. Good times by all, although Adam and Jo got snowed on a bit being the last couple up (the six of us climbed this route in three leads).