A highly enjoyable route! I would definitely recommend doing the lower portion as well (possibly more fun than the upper section). It should be noted that if the lower section is done, the downclimbing and traversing to get to the base of the upper ridge is likely the crux of the climb (5.6?). Also, this is not Yosemite! Be careful & test your holds- while there ARE sections of quality rock, there is much choss on the route, as well as MANY blocks that are somehow (currently) balanced, & just waiting for their equilibrium to be disturbed, so they can become talus... The large basin to the south, accessed via the notch between the upper and lower ridges, provides a much easier way of getting back to the trailhead.
This route is a great climb: scenic, aesthetic, interesting, with a fun finish. Definitely a good one and all the better when you can get snow at the start and finish as we did in May.
full east arete 5.5 as a winter climb. with mark t.
Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
That was the only trailhead that had room for 4 from Bishop....darn Labor day weekend!
I am glad we did it though. It was adventurous with no map, no compass, no topo. We followed our instict and that worked. Really fun climb.
Did all the lower 4th class ridge but too cold and late to top out.
Awesome climb. We brought a short skinny rope and superlight rack and it was more than enough. Went down the gully instead of reversing the arete and ended up having to climb a few ridges getting back around the mountain.
Climbed the East Arete to the last technical section before the summit at 13,000'. Bailed due to lack of time and a bit of snow. Great route, however.
Soloed entire East Arete. Descended/downclimbed the entire East Arete also, rather than deal with the snow in the normal descent gully. 4:40 from car to summit, and 4:30 from summit back to car.
Easy climbing, with nothing harder than maybe 5.5. Some loose and grainy stuff, but mostly solid rock. Worth doing. Great workout.