East Buttress freeze

Page Type
Trip Report
California, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Sep 27, 2005
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Created On: Nov 18, 2005
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Went out with a group of four to hit the E Buttress in a day and unbeknownst to us the happened to be about 2 feet of snow on the route.
After the 2nd pitch turned into desperate snow covered block humping with no gear 2 of the group bailed. My partner and I stuck it out though and brushed snow off the slabs and out of the cracks for gear. Once the sun left the face it got cold. The spin drift being blown around by the fierce winds wasn't helping us stay any warmer. We decided that we would simul climb to the top no matter what. No big deal right - easy climbing. After having to weave off route due to snow on to hard ground we started to wonder if we shouldn't have bailed. But miraculously after a snow filled chimney grovel and some good ol' 4th class postholing we were on top. We got back to the car at 8 o clock - much later than expected.
The moral of the story -
If there is snow on the route wear boots. Don't posthole in climbing shoes for extended periods of time- it sucks bad. This would be a stellar winter route if the correct gear was taken. The ice covered bock humping was pretty cool though in a twisted sort of way.


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