The descent from this climb is scary. This is probably the mental crux of the East Ridge climb. DO NOT
let your guard down after you complete this climb, nor after you complete the rappel. Wet slabs, steep and exposed downclimbing, and lots of snow early season make this a mountain adventure more than a pure rock climb. BE CAREFUL!
You will not see a bunch of people in Avalanche Canyon.
This route is primarily used as a descent from the Taminah Arete route. To climb it, follow the East Ridge Approach
details on the main Matternought Peak page. From the base of the ridge, climb 1 or 2 pitches of steep rock (4th class to 5.1) until the ridge eases and broadens out. It should be easier scrambling to the summit. There are very few remarkable features of this face, and the route options are many.
A small alpine rock rack and a few runners should be sufficient, depending on the comfort of the leader. A double rope rappel is needed to descend. In early season, an ice axe may be needed also.