Overview
Route Overview: This is a route that ascends nearly the middle of the east face of Fluted Peak. The route begins on a left trending arête-like structure just left of a prominent deep couloir. The route is mostly class 3 and 4 scrambling with some class 5 sections scattered about the route. There is a left escape about half way up the route on a grassy ledge but the escape would take one nearly up and over the summit so good weather is a consideration for the route.
Getting There
Route begins at the far west end of cirque basin accessed from Dry Creek Trail.
Route Description
The route begins by ascending class 3 and 4 steps and ledges up the left side of the arête-like structure. At one step a 12 foot left traverse keeps the climbing reasonable. After a few hundred feet of these steps and ledges a narrow saddle just beneath a prominent slab is reached. The route moves up and left across the slab and we thought this pitch warranted a rope as the fall potential is serious here. Aim for a small notch at the left edge of the slab and a rock horn is a reasonable belay anchor here. The route now moves up the left side of the structure with some low class 5 moves and some loose rock potential. This 50 foot pitch has a good belay ledge at another notch of sorts. The route now moves away from the ridge crest over some fairly easy grassy terrain to the regain the now more buttress-like structure. Move up through some class 3 steps and blocks for a few hundred feet to gain an alcove with no apparent easy way out. We thought the pitch up and out of the alcove at its high point was the crux of the route perhaps 5.6. This pitch offers some interesting climbing on good rock but not so obvious handholds and only one 15 foot piece warrants the 5.6 rating. The structure is more arête-like again and the route moves up, over and through some small towers with some class 4 climbing and the occasional 5th class move. The route then moves slightly rightward up through a few hundred feet of class 3 terrain with flexibility and arrives at a cliff band. The band is breached by a slab on its far left edge. This slab is low angle but somewhat lacking in handholds. After the slab, the route moves up a right trending ledge and breaks through to the next ledge with a left cut. This pattern repeats 4 or 5 times moving up the face of the large summit block. At a point nearly directly under the summit a notch appears and seems like an unlikely continuation of the route. Pass through it and the rest of the route appears, this being a class 3 and 4 straight up movement right up to the abruptly appearing summit. We descended the north ridge to the Horn Peak- Fluted Peak saddle and then proceeded down fairly steep but grassy slopes to the lakes below. We believe this is a possible 1st ascent of this structure of the face but would like to hear if anyone else has done this. Please leave a comment if you or anyone you know has tried this.
Essential Gear
50m rope, light alpine rack, 4-5 slings
External Links
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