East Face: Komarnickis' Route

Overview

Ladovy Stit is the third highest massif the Tatras. The most impresing view of Ladovy Massif is from the North but the South side also holds plenty of climbing routes- especially on Maly Ladovy Stit. The east face of the massif is wide and 300 meters high.
Komarniccy Route goes via center of the East Face. In the first part it goes through characteristic triangular snowfield then enters narrow chimney and follows it to the lowest point of the ridge between Ladovy Stit and Maly Ladovy Stit: Ladova Strbina: 2585 m. From that point by the ridge:

• north to the main summit


• south to the summit of Maly Ladovy Stit

First ascent: Gyula Komarnicki and Roman Komarnicki: July 30, 1909.
First winter ascent: P. Rozek: December 14, 1958.

The route is not very popular. The lower parts, even in summer is often a snow climb. In winter it’s a serious alpine climb, mostly on steep snow/ice with last pitch on rocks.

Note: The Slovakian name Maly Ladovy Stit is misleading for those who uses Polish maps. Polish name for Maly Ladovy Stit is Kopa Lodowa. For Poles Maly Lodowy Szczyt refers to Siroka Veza.

Approach

The starting point is Teryho Chata- Tery’s Hut.
The hut is easily reachable from Stary Smokovec: 3,5 h, 1000 m, green marks.

From Stary Smokovec to Hrebienok /1285 m/. Three options:

• by the road


• by the trail /green/


• by funicular

About 40 minutes.
Hrebienok- info about the funicular.

From Hrebienok to Zamkovskeho Chata
/1475 m/. On the first part two options:

• red marks: shorter and without altidude difference, 20 minutes


• green and then blue: longer but allows you to see Vodopady Studeneho Potoka and museum in Rainerova Chata. 30 minutes.

The second part /red marks/. Follow the comfortable trail /Magistrala/ passing Obrovsky Vodopad /.Upper Waterfall, 20 m/. Nice views. 30 minutes.

From Zamkovskeho Chata to Teryho Chata /2015m/.
The trail /green marks/ leads through Mala Studena Dolina. Views at Prostredny Hrot and Zlta Stena on the one side and Lomnica and Lomnicky Hrb on the other. The winter route is marked with poles. 1,5 h.

The whole approach takes about 3,5 h. Take into consideration spending a night in Teryho Chata. These hours our are priceless especially during the winter.

Route Description

In summer:
From the hut take the green/yellow marked route into the north-west direction. After about 300 m you spot a path heading north. The path goes round Velke Spisskie Pleso and then under south east walls of Maly Ladovy Stit. After an hour from the hut you leave the normal route to the Ladovy Stit and turn left into the direction of old snowfield, taking the route on the right side of the rock band below the snowfield.


In winter:
Go straight through the frozen lakes into N-N-E direction. Do not climb up the slopes on the left too early, try to follow the very bottom of the valley. Having the summit of Maly Ladovy Stit directly on the left start climbing the slopes on the left into the direction of snowy ramp. Take the ramp to the left, trying to reach the right side of the first rock band.

Above the rock band cross climb the snowfield /40 degrees, in summer old snow, in winter might be covered by very deep snow- dangerous!/ sticking to the left side and reaching the bottom of the rocky part of East Face. Traverse below these rocks /steep snow, 50 degrees/ and enter the lower, wide part of the couloir falling straght from Ladova Strbina. The terrain is getting steeper.

At about 2500 m the couloir is getting narrower and steeper /70 degrees/. In winter on snow, in summer on good rock. 15 meters below the ridge the couloir becomes vertical. In summer you may escape from the couloir to the right by a slab (II) and then easier to the ridge. In winter climb the couloir directly up (III-IV, harder but safer). The pass is very narrow, be careful- cornices!

Turn right /north/ and follow the ridge to the summit of Ladovy Stit (II) or turn left to reach the summit of Maly Ladovy Stit (I).

Essential Gear

Summer
Depending on your climbing skills. Rope /30 m/ might be useful. Several slings for the ridge and the last part of the route.
Winter

• Rope 60 m /double is very useful for the descent/


• Several quickdraws


• Medium sized nuts/ friends or pitons


• Ice- screws


• Ice- ax /two are useful/


• Crampons


• Helmet

Additional info

For problems like 'getting there', 'accomodation', 'red tape' and 'mountain conditions’ have a look at main page of Ladovy Stit.

Images

View East Face: Komarnickis' Route Image Gallery - 15 Images