The first route put up on the imposing 1000 meter East Face
5.8, 1100m FA Richard Culbert, Paul Starr, Fred Douglas August 1972
The first route on the East face. Cross the bergshrund near the left gully of the huge triangle rock, and scramble up the the pocket snow patch (4th-low 5th). Climb right under or on top of the snowpatch to the huge main face. In the summer massive chunks of deadly snow calve off, so don’t spend much time here . Climb the main face or the buttress to the right for about 350m to where the wall steepens. Contiune up the crux pitchs on the blunt buttress (5.7-5.8) and some easier lose slabs and cracks to finish almost on the summit..
set nuts plus a few cams