East Flank/ North East Ridge

Page Type
France/Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Glacier Walk then scramble: perfect 1st Alp!
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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East Flank/ North East Ridge
Created On: Nov 17, 2002
Last Edited On: Nov 18, 2002


Start early from the Trient hut (Swiss Alpine Club) or from the Albert Premiere Hut (French Alpine Club).

To get to either of these huts is simple from the French or the Swiss sides of the border. (See main Page).

Route Description

From the Trient Hut:
Walk towards the Col du Tour and then approach the mountain from the South East, close to the frontier ridge which is the boarder with France. It takes about an hour to get to the base of the peak from the Trient hut.

Climb up the NE ridge up to the Northern Summit. It is easy rock scrambling where it is best to move together all of the time rather than pitching it. Halfway up the ridge, between the two summits is a shoulder. Climb the face to here and follow the crest to the top. It is possible to traverse between the two summits.

From the Albert Premiere hut:
Walk up the glacier to the SE. There are a number of cravasses but there is usually a path through them. A rope (and cravasse rescue gear) is a must. At point 3131m "top 25" Chamonix Map turn East and ascend to the Col du Tour to the border with Switzerland. Cross into Switzerland and turn North: from there follow above route.

It is possible to descend the same way, or via Couloir du Table (see route section on this page). Alternatively traverse the ridge down to the Aiguille Purtscheller. I have not done this route but have seen it and have read about it in the Alpine Club guide book (UK).

Essential Gear

Crampons for the glacier might be needed in some conditions. 1x ice axe. slings and a couple of carabiners for belays on the rock scramble. No need for other hardware such as cams and nuts.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

East Flank/ North East Ridge

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