East Rib

Page Type: Route
Route Type: Scrambling
Season: Summer
Time Required: One to two days
Difficulty: 4/5th class scramble
Rock Difficulty: 5.3 (YDS)
Number of Pitches: 1
Grade: I


The best way to access the east side of Eagle Cap is from Glacier lake via Glacier Pass. To get to Glacier lake simply follow the West Fork Wallowa trail (Directions to trailhead on Eagle Cap main page).

Route Description

East Rib Route

The trail heading North from Glacier Lake will take you to the top of Glacier Pass. From the top head west along the ridge toward Eagle Cap (this will be obvious). As the vegetation disappears and the grade steepens you will climb up some class 3 until reaching some vegetation just before a short vertical block. From here traverse south along the east face to the base of the east rib.

Vertical block

The east rib is the next rock feature to the south of the east ridge. Get on the rib via a wide Southeast facing ramp. The climbing is mainly 4th class with a few 5.easy moves. The rock is pretty solid but a fall near the top would definitely be fatal, use extreme caution and maybe even consider a belay.

This route offers a very fun alternative to the normal route and is one on the best ways to exploit what little granite we have here in Oregon.

Essential gear

I climbed this route solo so I was not looking for gear placements, however the rock quality is very good and I am sure there are plenty of options.