East Ridge Direct Ascent

Page Type
Route
Location:
Pichincha, Ecuador, South America
Route Type:
Scramble
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
3rd to 4th class rock

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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70.83% Score
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East Ridge Direct Ascent
Created On: Aug 15, 2003
Last Edited On: Sep 15, 2003

Approach


See main section. If you are coming from the Quito side, you just begin climbing on the first ridge encountered.

Under "Time Required", a "long day" means from Quito. The actual rock scramble is pretty short.

Route Description


***Note: the summit is actually around 4710 meters high*** If you have some rock climbing experience and you are like me and don't like to climb arenal (arena=sand, arenal=steep bank of soft sand that makes climbing tedious) then this is the route to take. Just start climbing the ridge that the east-side trails lead up to and follow the ridge line until you reach the summit. Notable exposed areas are the beginning section, where the ridge is narrow and a short bit of low 4th class is encountered, and the short knife-edge saddle known as "El Paso del Muerte", where a single low fifth-class move pulls you up onto the rocky little pass shortly before the summit.

The arenal is very nice for the descent, so after summitting, scramble straight down the steep northern face (climber's right) until you hit sand, and then plunge-step your way down to the traverse trail, at which you head to the right to get back to Quito.

Essential Gear


You can do this in hiking boots without any climbing equipment, as long as you trust your grip.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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big_g

big_g - May 29, 2004 11:55 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Are you sure you did not mix up the routes a little?

summiter

summiter - Mar 30, 2006 1:54 am - Hasn't voted

TeleferiQo

There is a cable car that runs up the side of Ruco putting near a ridge that will take you right to the mountain. I have climbed it two times using the TeleferiQo (intentional capitalized "Q"). I believe it costs 4 US dollars round trip. It gives good views of Quito, and on really clear days I have see all the way to Chimborazo one way and Cotacachi the other.

There is a distinct path most of the way, but just follow the ridge to the mountain and you should be fine. The path continues on to the "arenal" sandslide if you do not wish to cut up the East Ridge.



Also, this mountain is being climbed more frequently since the TeleferiQo came. The past danger of muggings and armed robberies have died away to almost nothing.

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