Charles! The two pages compliment each other very well. You might want to consider incorporating what to expect with dry conditions into your route description if you think it's needed. Thanks for a great job on writing up this route!
Thanks! Yeah, I read your route with interest as it looks completely different this time of year. You should really try the full ridge sometime. Honestly, the bottom part was much more fun for me! Unfortunately, I don't really have much idea what it would be like without snow. The top part was mostly snow-free, but the bottom would probably be much less interesting. Certainly, walking along knife-edge snow ridges like that has always been a life goal of mine.
The crazy thing is, we watched a party of four probably two hours behind us working their way up the lower ridge with two dogs. On our descent, we saw them above the notch, still with dogs! No idea how they got the dogs across, but I would expect even the 3-4th class stuff above would present a serious challenge without opposable thumbs!
Yeah-Dogs on that ridge is not a good idea. Thanks for the tips.
Certainly doable, but you avoid half the fun which is the rap.
It's certainly doable (from either side of the ridge), but then it wouldn't be direct ;-)
The alternative start posted by JFox is very much worth doing. It skips the lower "boring" section of the ridge and tops out before the rapel. We went up a little different route then described as there are many options, but the climbing was solid and fun; around 5.4. We did it in two pitches and we could only find one piece of pro for each pitch, although I suppose if the climbing was more difficult we would have looked harder. You only need one ice axe for this route.