East Ridge/Face

Page Type
Idaho, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical rock
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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East Ridge/Face
Created On: Dec 4, 2005
Last Edited On: Dec 4, 2005


Follow the approach from Redfish lake, to Baron Lakes then to Bead Lakes as described on the main page. Head for the col between Cirque Peak and Warbonnet Peak. The climb starts here.

Route Description

This route basically ascends the standard rappel route.

Pitches 1-3: (5.7-5.8)
The first 3 pitches are quite similar in they are somewhat run-out on beautiful granite slab face climbing mixed with small flaring cracks. Get in protection when able, but also be prepared to go 20 ft. between pieces of pro.
Set up the belay stations at the rappel anchors.

Pitch 4: (5.9)
At 3rd rappel anchor you can traverse to East face under an overhanging block on a beautiful hand jam crack around a corner which eventually thins to a wide horizontal fingers crack traverse over a huge flake (highly recommended) or downclimb about 15 ft and traverse on class 4+ ledges to the East face.

Pitch 5: (5.8)
Climb wide hand crack for about 20 feet then climbing becomes easier for remainder of pitch. Travel under chockstone and finish pitch on large ledge which is the top of the notch below summit block from south face route.

Pitch 6:(5.6)
Climb the Summit Block Face and relax and enjoy the 2000 feet of air under your feet!!!

Reverse your route either by rappeling back to chockstone, or rappel off bolts (3- 1/4" bolts--2 new, 1 very old) directly to ledge at top of pitch #4. Traverse over to rappel anchors and reverse route to col and then back to Bead lakes--Baron Lakes--Redfish Lake.

Essential Gear

2- 60 meter ropes required for rappel!!!

Helmet, rock shoes, comfy harness, rappel device.
Full alpine rack (full set of nuts, full set of cams 0.5"-4"), 6-8 quickdraws, 6-8 med slings, 2-3 long slings, 4-6 locking carabiners, 15-20 ft webbing (may need to replace webbing at rappel anchors).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

East Ridge/Face

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