East Ridge (from Schwarzhorn)

East Ridge (from Schwarzhorn)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 47.05515°N / 9.55811°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: Scramble
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Additional Information Grade: I
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This is the easiest way to obtain the highest point in Liechtenstein.

East ridgeFrom the summit of the Schwarzhorn


Getting There

Follow the directions to the Schwarzhorn here.

Route Description

From the summit of the Schwarzhorn there are two options: either down climb or rappel the class 4 west of the summit, or back track down from the summit and traverse the southwest face of the Schwarzhorn. Either one can be very tedious, as the exposure on the class 4 is very harrowing, and the traverse is over loose rock on another steep slope. Once you gain the ridge, head east and stay close to the top of the ridge. The ridge is mostly class 2 with some bits of class 3. Soon you'll come to the low spot on the ridge and the ascent begins. Focus on the summit of the Grauspitz. It IS NOT the peak closest to you with the cross on it. The Grauspitz has no cross. The peak with the cross is the Sammi Claus. Soon you'll come to a secondary summit, and from there the summit is about 2 minutes away. Re-trace your steps back. The class 4 back up to the summit of the Schwarzhorn is much easier to go up than down, so if you feel comfortable with it, ascend the class 4. It is much more enjoyable than doing the traverse again. The rocks is a little loose, so watch your footing. Time from the Schwarzhorn to the Grauspitz is 1/2 hour.

Essential Gear

A good map (which can be purchased at the Älpli Bahn), good grippy boots, water. If you so choose, I think a 60 meter rope would be sufficent for the rappel from the summit of the Schwarzhorn. Again, pro isn't neccessary, but if you are uncomfortable on class 4 with decent exposure, it would be a good idea to be prepared.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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atavist

atavist - May 23, 2016 1:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Confusing clause

"Focus on the summit of the Grauspitz. It IS NOT the peak closest to you with the cross on it. The Grauspitz has no cross. The peak with the cross is the Sammi Claus." I find this passage confusing. I read it countless times and understood it to mean that Sammi Claus is closer than Grauspitz. There are at least 3 peaks with crosses visible from the ridges in this area. Sammi Claus is further not closer, if traversing the east ridge from Schwarzhorn to Grauspitz.

McCannster

McCannster - May 23, 2016 1:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Confusing clause

Hello, I meant to mean that Sammi Klaus is the nearest summit to the west of the Schwarzhorn that has a cross on it. Grauspitz is indeed closer to the Schwarzhorn than Sammi Klaus, but has no cross on it (at least this was the case 4 years ago....haven't been in the area since, so maybe that is no longer the case).

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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

GrauspitzRoutes