East ridge (Ottoz)

East ridge (Ottoz)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.85700°N / 6.90180°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: D
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 10
Sign the Climber's Log


The Ottoz-Grivel-Croux route to Pyramide is a very fine introduction to the Mont Blanc granite.
This is the shortest classic route in the range of Satellites du Tacul

Difference in height is about 250m
9-11 pitches
Exposure not high while going on, you can feel it coming down.

There are 2 different starting points for the route : the lower one, slightly to the right of the lower part of the ridge is, maybe, easier but on not fine rock, the other one (marked on the sketch), is a little more difficult to get, shortens a little the route, but is on fine rock.

The route is easy to find, even if many variants can be used (to avoid crowd)
The quality of the rock is excellent, apart the first 2 pitches (easy : 2° 3°) that could be climbed unroped.
Warning, few protections in site, we found only 2 pitons and happened to climb long (40m) pitches without any peg or quick-draw.
Belays are normally very good (better avoid to use the belay few metres under the overhang).

Getting There

From Rifugio Torino follow the track toward Aiguille du Midi (or viceversa).
There's normally a track leading to the starting point of the route
Needed time to get here 1 or 2 hours. (the last part of the glacier is normall very crevassed and arriving to touch the rock is not always easy, iceaxe and crampons strongly required !).

Route Description

Pyramide - Ottoz route
The line of the route follows the ridge, on the left side in the lower part , on the edge or the right side in the higher part.

From the contact to the rocks follow toward right (ascending) till a good, exposed, belay.
On along a short vertical wall then along an ascending ledge toward right.

Follow along a not steep dihedral (4°)

On along a fine sheer cracked dihedral (in its middle part a terrasse) at its end, along a ramp, to the belay.
Following good slabs get the small ledge beyond the overhang and get over (5°) on the left side (not hard doing the splits)

Along easy slabs up to the foot of a vertical wall, cross to the right and go down few meters to get the right side of the edge.
On along a fantastic slab (4°)

Straight to the summit in 3 not difficult pitches (3° - 4°) climbing just very near the edge
The summit is a blade that can be touched only with your hand !

The descent is along the route and requires 8 or 9 rappels (better having 2 ropes 50m long)

here some pics of this amusing (and often crowded) route
Pyramide du Tacul - Ottoz - 07Pyramide du Tacul - Ottoz - 17Pyramide du Tacul - via Ottoz...

Essential Gear

Iceaxe and crampons to get the starting point and to come back.
2 ropes 50m long
some friends and nuts



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