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4128 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.50000°N / 8.20000°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA IV to V (YDS 5.5 - 5.7) |
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Direct StartUIAA V
Overview
The East Ridge (Ostgrat) is the most popular route on the peak. It offers spectacular ridge climbing at the UIAA III and IV (~5.4 to about 5.6 YDS) level. The direct start is UIAA V (~5.8 YDS).The first ascent was by Preiswerk, Zürcher, Anderegg and Baer in 1947.
Approach
From the Bächlihut in 2 hours or from the Grübenhütte in 1.5 hours one hikes the trail to the Unteren Bächlilücke.Route Description
From the Unteren Bächlilücke, the first two vertical ridge steps are climbed directly (V) or they are traversed easily around on the north side.One follows the flat ridge, climbing directly over any small towers, until the ridge steepens. At this point, traverse 5 to 6 meters to the right over a large block into a smooth niche. From the niche to the left to a smooth plate, where one climbs 3 m up a crack, which leads to a belay stance on the ridge (large block). One traverse 2m left on a small pedestal and climbs up a smooth dihedral with a small crack back to the ridge. (III to IV).
Now continue along the easier ridge crest to the summit block. Go aorund the base to the north over to the NW ridge and attain the summit over plates that have good holds.
CLIMBING ON THE RIDGE:
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Descent
Rappel to GlacierOne can traverse the entire mountain by descending the SW ridge (UIAA II, 4 - 5) to the Oberen Bächlilücke (upper Bächli gap). From the Oberen Bächlilücke one can descend to the Gaulihut , from where other climbs in the region are accessed.
The direct descent is through the south-east flank by way of gullies and the south ridge and along a terrace (sometimes snow-covered) or down the south ridge to a rappel point to the glacier. Both descent routes are also recommended ascent routes. The bergschrund at the base of the SE flank in late season can be quite large.
Essential Gear
Much of the protection is fixed - 4 or 5 quickdraws, slings and a small rack should be adequate. 50m rope more than enough. Because this is a ridge, long leads only create a lot of friction.The approach from either hut is over glacier - appropriate gear is needed, depending on conditions.