East Ridge

Sketch of East Ridge on Wolfs Head including the standard descent. The book as well as various descriptions on the web of how to get off the summit were a bit confusing (though it was pretty clear once there) and so I've decided to put this picture in. Please note the orientation of the "map" - west is directed upwards here. Map is - obviously - not to scale. Think of it more as a sketch. The red line represents the climb as we did it (dashed red is the alternate start as it appears in Roper and Steck). Belays are not indicated - lots of freedom exists as to where exactly one belays. We did the Grassy Ledges "approach" roped and it took about 4 pitches to reach the Tiger-Wolfs Head notch (=start of East Ridge proper). From there it took us about 8 pitches (including a long simulclimb pitch up the "ramp") to reach the summit. Key features and various "cruxes" are indicated. The descent is represented by the blue line with arrows intended to show rappels. R1 and R2 are short (<80 feet each). These are followed by a walk (class 2 then a few feet of exposed class 3) to reach R3. We did R3-R5 as single 60m rope raps but did have to scramble a bit to reach next rap stations in each case (most scrambles were quite exposed and we "hip belayed" each other over this terrain). At end of R5 you face a huge drop if you continue down the rap line! Instead, catch a narrow and exposed ledge with a faint path to the left. This is the start of the slabs traverse to reach the Wolfs Head-Overhanging Tower col. Traverse narrow "ledges" in low angle slabs southward. Going gets progressively less exposed and the "path" stays west of the ridge crest (some cairns mark the way closer to col). At the end of the "walk", one more rap over mostly class 4-5.0 terrain is needed (R6) to reach the Wolfs Head-Overhanging Tower Col (you rap to a point about 30 feet W of the col = need to scramble over the Col towards Cirque Lake). We did this rap as a double rope but I'm pretty sure a single would work too (tie in knots!).


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Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Aug 10, 2004 9:41 pm - Voted 10/10


This is an incredible topo and really puts Wolf's Head into perspective. Thanks for submitting.


rpc - Aug 11, 2004 10:46 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Unbelievable!

Thanks Alan!


asmrz - Apr 28, 2005 5:41 pm - Voted 10/10

This is what we need much more of on SP

I would like to thank you for posting this. In my opinion, we need more good topos of routes like this all over the SP domain. After all, we all depend on good topos and too many don't measure up. Your does!

Cheers, Alois.


rpc - Apr 28, 2005 7:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: This is what we need much more of on SP


Thank you for your kind remarks!

Means a lot to me given how much quality stuff YOU have submitted to SP.




rpc - Oct 24, 2005 11:44 am - Hasn't voted

Re: This is what we need much more of on SP


thank you very much for the kind words! I'm very happy (& flattered) to hear that you guys found it useful. It's a great route isn't it? Hope you guys enjoyed yourselves as much as we did that day :)

Nice series of photos BTW. I'll update the WH's page and the East Ridge route page with your great shots in a day or so.

Kind regards,



asmrz - Oct 23, 2005 5:16 pm - Voted 10/10

Tested in the field-Passed with flying colors!


Just wanted to Thank you for posting this and letting all of us use it. Penelope and I did the route in August 2005 and used this topo. It made the routefinding a trivial affair. Your topo is clear and functional. Recommended.

Thanks again, Alois.


rpc - Jul 24, 2007 12:53 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Tested in the field-Passed with flying colors!

thank you very much Alois & my apologies for missing your nice comment earlier!


crispy - Jul 21, 2007 2:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Excellent topo!

Just got back from the Cirque and used this topo with zero problems. Could have climbed it blindfolded if there was a braille version--no joke! Thanks, Radek, for the great work and extremely useful tool. Strongly recommend it to anyone heading up the route.


rpc - Jul 24, 2007 12:47 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Excellent topo!

Thanks Chris - glad it was useful :)

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