I followed per the south gully approach but I never entered the gully on my ascent. I stayed to the right of it and climbed lots of class 3 and 4 rock, with one spot of low class 5 directly up the SSE face. I hit the east ridge close to the summit and traversed easily to the top. I descended the big gully on the descent though and essentially boot skid down the scree. Going up that would monumentally suck.
Climbed via South Gully with Cecelia Reagle. Indeed lots of loose scree and rockfall made for an interesting climb. Beautiful bluebird fall day!
snow near the top made for interesting scrambling
Took the old road to the back country trail up to the ridge. Enjoyed a beautiful view of Palmer before following the ridge to the peak. Spent a few hours picking out the safest way to the summit. I have some rock climbing experience and my partner has mountaineering and ice climbing experience. We ended up taking a rather challenging route up. Definitely class 4. Lots of poor quality rock, loose rock, and scree on the way up.
Took about 5 hours to summit. Took the first gully down east of the summit. Lots and lots of loose scree. Was a little sketchy.
Took about 9 hours start to finish. Overall, a nice challenging hike with some amazing views. Very enjoyable.
I attempted the E Ridge, which I found to be very challenging. The route finding, rock climbing, and exposure all were too much for me. I turned around at a rock step, a corner system on the north side of the ridge. Doable but I decided to go back down because it was rather soggy.
A year later I climbed up the South Face gullies, which had a bit of Class 4 rock to gain the summit. Twas fun! Fantastic view from the summit.
Climbed E Ridge, descended the South Gully (which was then quite different from what it is today). The photos on the main page were taken on an Aug. 2011 ascent. The description on the main page was updated after a Sept. 2015 ascent.
Climbed with Greg Bragiel.