Fully bolted route located on a broad arête to the left of a shallow gully. One of my favorite 5.10 bolted slab climbs in Jtree and stout for the grade. Off the deck, easily reach the first bolt no worries. The crux climbing starts in after that. The crux section of the route is between the 1st and 3rd bolts. Delicate feet on sandy granite as you unlock the thought provoking slab moves at the grade. Felt slightly sandbagged, much more challenging that Try Again a 5.10b further left. Eventually you get bit of a layback against a micro corner. An exposed traverse right over a small roof and then more positive climbing to the top. Rap bolts are up and right. If you have to clean the route on rappel, it will not be straight down. Dow
There are other bolted routes then shown in the most recent (3rd edition) of Miramontes guide. Specifically there is an unpublished route between Try Again and Minute Man to its right. Try Again, is the next route after Double Dip and Battle of the Bulge, moving left to right. Run out, but at a lessor grade, slab climbing to a chossy small flake on the left. You can place suspect gear here or just continue running it out below the grade until the first bolt (40’). The crux slab/edge climbing is from here through the next bolt. Fun climbing, crux section is maybe 20’ before it eases up to the top. Really only two bolts vs three as the guide has, but you can clip a third bolt in line with Battle of the Bulge if you rather. 70m just makes it down with 2 meters of easy down climbing. Dow
The local guide has it at 90’, but it is 125’ to the shared anchor above Forbidden Paradise. Has 5 bolts vs 4 in the guide. A competent leader at the grade will not need extra gear. Typical Jtree 5.6, no surprises. If you want to set it up for top rope via a 70m rope, the leader, while being lowered, needs to clip into the lower bolt on Forbidden whilst the follower starts up Double Dip and then the new belayer can hang on the top rope until his/she reaches the ground. The 70m single rap off of Forbidden reaches an easy down climbable slab ramp for the final two meters to the ground. Dow
Worthy of the two star recommendation. The crux is right after the first bolt with a cat claw type tree waiting for your skin if you fail. A thoughtful climb the whole way through three bolts on micro edges and slab to an easy, for the grade, flake that can be protected if you want otherwise it is run out on easier ground to the shared fixed rap. Starts at a small under cling flake over a tree and brush and runs up the left side of the same feature that has Heart and Sole on its right side. You can take a medium piece for near the top, but if you climb at this grade, you prob don't care.
The crux is stout for the grade if pulling over the first bolt. However you can traverse left after the first clip and find slab moves at the grade, but I don’t think that was the route developer’s intent. Either way, this entire pitch through four bolts located on the face that harbors Heart and Sole on the right and Quick Draw McGraw on the left, is sustained at the grade. I have done many Jtree 5.10c’s that were easier. Sport climb through 4 clips to a shared fixed rappel.
a fun slab climb that's worth hitting if your around.
This route seems a bit hyped to me. Gets three stars in the new guide book, can't say I see that myself. Just a slab route. More than 100'. Tried to set up top rope for my 2nd and a 60m was a bit short. Not hard to fix though if you are competent. Warm and sunny pitch after mid morning. Between Touch n Go and Popes Crack, has that going for it. With Joe K
Followed Justing on Double Dip, my first Joshua Tree lead back in Nov. 2006. Then led Stichter Quits (aka Black Tide) with several falls after first bolt. Clear autumn day.
Started off with PALM-U-GRANITE 5.7 on the left side of Echo Cove then R.A.F. 5.9 a little over. Sun felt great on a January day!