Up Edgar via a different route up, and yet another route down. Cold all day (water frozen in the a.m.), but fortunately little to no wind.
I just climbed Edgar on January 4, 2014. The park is still closed and fenced off with barbed wire. I took a faint dirt road leading north from the road into the park until I hit a severely washed out section (it would turn out that old road was washed out in several places and hasn't been passable for quite awhile). I camped there and set out early on Saturday, following the fence line and heading generally for Gilroy Canyon. I found a section of fence that had been cut through some years ago with a clearly defined foot path leading into the park from the north for the purpose of grazing cattle on it (the Blair Brothers'?), so I went in and took a more direct line to the mouth of Gilroy. The DPS directions say to take the left fork of the canyon. This is a mistake, as it is full of brush, cactus, and cat's claw, and will lead to a nearly vertical channel full of rotten class 3 rock outcroppings. I found a much better way to descend, which lead me to the north fork of Gilroy, which was very easy to negotiate and had little of the spiny plants the south fork had. I did see that the park has a live in caretaker, but it seems the interest is in protecting the buildings, etc., at the headquarters.
Cactus plus snow plus loose scree made for a painful day. Also, note that the Providence SRA is closed (not just the caverns), and there's someone who will notice if you park right outside. He seemed cool with climbers -- I guess they're more worried about people poaching the cave.
After Mitchell Point, Pat, Mark, and I traversed over to Edgar Peak. Going north to south made for easier routefinding since you climb up all of the small cliffs found, rather than having to downclimb them going the other way. We encountered a foot or more of snow on the north facing slopes which was very icy in the lower reaches where it had gotten above freezing at some point. Very cold day with highs in the 20s.
Led a DPS group up and down via the visitors center route. Lots of cactus and some loose terrain but a nice peak once you're to the ridge.
Traversed from Fountain. Saw two eagles, heard the canyon wrens, and almost stepped on a baby rattler. Still picking cactus spines out of my legs several days later.
A great day out. Edgar is a nice peak, but Fountain is much better.
MoapaPk, show-off that he is, demonstrated some of his gymnastics abilities on the descent. I'll give him a "10" for surviving.
Climbed with cp and Rick. The route from Fountain was "interesting".
On the way down, I almost bought it when part of the gravel use trail collapsed under my right foot, spilling me sideways over a very steep gravel&rock chute. I had to push off and bounce several times before I could get my feet under me. I dug in my hands as if I were doing a self-arrest, which wasn't all too good for my hands. I hate and fear steep gravel with a passion.
It's those trivial stretches, where you least expect accidents, which can kill you. My mind was focussed for the class 4 stuff beforehand; but I was relaxed coming down the class 2 peak. Thank God I still have the backcountry ski instincts to get my feet under me at all costs.
Challenging route-finding from Fountain Peak. The area is highly scenic, but the incredible numbers of cacti found here do much to detract from the enjoyment of this.
This is an excellent Peak, great views in all directions. Quite a difficult hike, there's no trail and lots of cacti.
A classic Mojave Desert peak.