Edwards Mountain (MT)

Edwards Mountain (left) and Little Matterhorn from the northeast. Photo by saintgrizzly

From the west.

Overview

From the east.

Edwards Mountain a distinctive arête located just northeast of the northern end of Lake McDonald on the west side of Glacier National Park. It is one of the first larger peaks seen by visitors entering the Park from West Glacier. The summit of Edwards Mountain offers an excellent view of Sperry Glacier. It can be climbed in a long day from Lake McDonald, or more leisurely with an overnight at or near Sperry Chalet. On a good day, Edwards Mountain can be seen on the right side of the Lake McDonald Web Cam. For peak names, see This Photo An exceptional computer generated photo: Brown, Edwards, & Gunsight from McDonald Lake

Getting There

Wintery view from near Logan Pass

Glacier National Park is located in northwestern Montana. Going-to-the-Sun Road is the main scenic route through the Park and the way to Logan Pass and Heavens Peak. It is not kept open during the winter. Closing in the fall and opening in the spring depends on snow depth and conditions. Opening can be as late as July. Current Road Status Both routes on Edwards Mountain is approached via the Sperry Glacier Trail, which starts near the Lake McDonald Lodge. Lake McDonald Area Map & Trail Descriptions

Red Tape

Setting from the west.

Current Entrance Fees Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory. Outdoor Activity Page Includes links to boating, bicycling, fishing, etc. and the regulations applying to each.

Routes Overview

GUIDEBOOK: A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK; J. Gordon Edwards SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed. Please see this Fact Sheet for further details: GNP Rock & Grading Systems A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK describes two routes on Edwards Mountain.  

Edwards Mountain from the southeast (summit of Gunsight Mountain). A traverse of the peak ascending the West Ridge and descending the East Ridge / Face basically follows the skyline left to right.

For those wishing to climb class 4 & 5, a traverse of the mountain ascending the West Ridge and descending via the East Face makes an excellent trip that can also be combined with a climb of Gunsight Mountain on the same day. West Ridge, Class 4 & 5, about 8.5 miles and 5,800 vertical feet from Lake McDonald. The ridge is attained by climbing the slope just north of Sperry Chalet (Class 2 & 3) to the ridge crest. One then follows the ridge either on the crest or just below it to the summit. Many variations are possible. East Face / Ridge, Class 2 & 3, about 8.5 miles and 5,800 vertical feet from Lake McDonald. The route starts just above the "stairs" leading to Sperry Glacier and climbs the lower slopes and small cliffs to the final summit ridge which is then followed to the summit.

When To Climb

On the East Ridge

June, July, August, September, and even into October depending on the amount of snow and the road closures.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park: Backcountry Camping Page Includes trail status reports, campground availability, daily backcountry bulletins, and a backcountry blog. Car Camping Page There are also many campgrounds just outside the Park on both the west and east sides. Camping on the Blackfeet Reservation is restricted to established campgrounds only. If planning to stay overnight nearer the mountain, the Sperry Backcountry Campground is located near Sperry Chalet. It only has four sites, two of which may be reserved. One can also stay at Sperry Chalet. Probably a bit pricey for most climber types.

Mountain Conditions

Weather Page an overview with a link to the local forecast. Webcam Page

External Links

Glacier National Park Homepage Glacier Mountaineering Society Non-government Glacier National Park Information