Egger/Sauscheck (Kleine Zinne)

Page Type
Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Rock Difficulty:
5.10a (YDS)

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
Egger/Sauscheck (Kleine Zinne)
Created On: Mar 10, 2006
Last Edited On: Mar 11, 2006


The route was first climbed in 1955 and is a very serious climb with a very daring line. The fixed protection is mostly miserable and the leader must be able to master the indicated difficulty of the route. Some Friends and a few slings will ease one's life considerably.

Getting There

From the Auronzo Hut, one takes the normal trail in the direction of the Patern saddle. After a short descent, one walks 15 minutes along a narrow trail to the base of the wall of the Kleine Zinne. The start is on the highest point to the left.

Route Description

In the lower part, the route is mostly a wall climb with the crux a UIAA VI+ - YDS 5.10a. Beneath an overhang (UIAA VI+, 5.10a) the route is almost always wet. Then the route follows an obvious, slightly left trending crack. The rock is not firm and climbers must be careful to not knock any rocks loose. Towards the top, the climbing becomes easier. After a traverse to the saddle in the north face one can easily (UIAA IV+, YDS 5.7) reach the summit of the Kleine Zinne via the Innerkofler route, where one is rewarded with a fantastic view.

The descent is via a fixed rappel route.

Essential Gear

A hammer to reset the mostly rusty and old pitons is of benefit. Some Friends and a few slings will make your life easier.