great weather, kind of long and dirty climb (ice, snow, slippery rocks), technically fine III-IV UIAA when found the proper way, terrible descent ... West flank is piece of shit, running rocks (even those with 2 meters), unstable, hard to find route, hardly to belay... Now I know why nobody uses south ridge for ascend and westflank neither for ascend nor descend.
Climbed with Freddy Grossniklaus who was a super guide. Perfect weather and conditions, relatively fast climb up and down to the Moenchsjochhuette.
Awesome climb in every way; glad I had a chance to do it.
Great weather until late on with a rather epic descent. Not technically the hardest climbing but huge exposure and the morning verglass plays havoc with the route finding!
Fond memories now I'm back home!
Of the 40 or so peaks I've climbed so far, the Eiger by the Mittellegi Ridge was the best so far.
Bivvied on a scenic ledge at 3000m then climbed up to 3600m - chickened out of the final 300m, climbing solo.
Nico and my brother Gabriel and Jean-Philippe and I started from Mittellegi hut at 5:45am it was cloudy and a bit windy. We reached summit at 9h30am after excellent climbing and sunny conditions. Then we continued to Mönchsjochhütte where we celebrated with beers first and the with bottle of wine in the dinner to celebrate Nico's birthday. An excellent experience and always keeping an eye on the impressive north face.
Years ago when I was a young lad, I skiied the Eiger area and attempted to get to summit, but weather and inexperience forced me to rethink and turn back... breathtaking
After a rather awkward climb over snowy and very wet rocks/scree we reached the excellent Mittellegi hut on Saturday afternoon. Enjoyed an excellent meal and fine weather and got up the next day to climb the ridge in perfect weather. Very enjoyable climb on relatively good limestone with a magnificent snow crest as a finale! Took the NW flank for our descent which I cannot recommend as it's very loose, iced up and routefinding is very challenging. Furthermore the rockfall is terrible! Take the South Ridge instead!
My seventh solo in Alps,up and down in twelve hours, it seemed more like half a lifetime.Its not technicly diffuclt, more like the mother of all scrambles,but boy 2000m up and 2000m down,it makes Mont Blanc (normal route)seem like a walk in the park.I didnt enjoy this one at the time but i got some perverse satisfaction along the lines of what doesnt kill you must make you stronger.Anyway bring on Mittelegi!
We stepped out on the glacier from the railway station Eismeer in rainy weather and arrived at the Mittellegi hut after travelling on wet and slippery rock. Coming morning the weather was good and we set out on the icy Mittellegi ridge. We had some problems at the stiff and frozen fixed ropes but were able to reached the summit at ten. Going down the long west flank makes you feel you have knees. This climb is a 'Once in a lifetime' experience! (August 1, 1996 - being the day of my fiftieth birthday).
Bivied on the ridge at the start of the Eiger joch. Woke up cold with altitude sickness. Partner didn't have any sympathy for me. After tying into the rope and starting out I felt better, Great day of climbing, clear with beautiful views. Met many guided party's coming over the Mittellegi
Attempted the Northeast Pillar Austrian Route but retreated due to waterfalls. Did the Mittellegi instead. Great route with great views. Took the South Ridge down in a white out. A long day.
Nice route, if a little short. Good exposed rock on the the Eigerjochs Traverse. Rotten rock on the South Ridge to summit, making the descent a little precarious. 11 hours round trip.
Beautiful! My favorite alpine climb thus far in my climbing career.
Had a go. But dispite the weather looking OK we only got round to the rige past the South Eigerjoch. What a great place anyway!!
One day soon I suppose we'll just have to have another go. The three of us were in varied states of unwell. . . . . . . . thats my excuse anyway.
Can there be any more beautiful mountains as in the Bernese Alps! From May 15th through the 17th, with partner Bill Menning we climbed the easy South West Flank to the Eiger summit, then went down the South Ridge to the Bergli Hut. The next day we went down to the Eismeer Station and over to the South East Face and "played on it a bit" then went up to the Mittellegi Hut. Climbed the Mettellegi Ridge back to the Eiger summit on the morning of the 17th. At this point feeling cocky Bill wanted to climb down the North Face summit fields and try to get some glimpse of the face from that perspective. After 3 rope pitches down we came to our senses and quickly climbed back up.
We did these climbs in preparation to attempt the North Face at a later date.
Climbed with English guide Jonathan Preston. First alpine summit. Felt quite apprehensive while in excellent Mittellegi hut the night before but perfect weather and conditions allowed for a truly memorable ascent. Descended via South Ridge to stay at the Monchjoch Hutte, and ascended the Monch the next day. Technically no harder than Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis but altitude and history makes it physically and mentally more challenging (and rewarding).
Climbed with Dres Schild. Good weather and conditions, but in the fog on the summit. Descended via the West Flank.