1983: Zodiac. I was a nineteen year old punk and dragged my 17 year old buddy with me. Litte did I know our other buddies were betting him cams that we'd bail, which he only confessed to me halfway up. Lots of hard thin nailing back then. Everything else I've done since has felt easy in comparison. By far my biggest breakthrough in terms of what I could achieve, both as a climber and in life.
1991: The Shield. What can you say? It's the Shield.
1992: West Face. A long day. Awesome to be able to look up from the base and hope you're going to be able to cover that much ground in a day (actually, for us, a little over a day).
1995: Pacific Ocean Wall. Great route. A few tricky sections but not nearly as hard as I thought it would be. Having grown up reading Greg Child's account in Mountain magazine about the second ascent, it felt awesome to climb such a historic route.
Bailed more times than I can count: three times off the Nose (twice because of people poaching our lines, once after getting rained on in the Stovelegs), snowed off of Lurking Fear and stormed off from the top of pitch 5 of Mescalito.
Climbed Lurking Fear over Halloween 2005, and the Salathe Wall in May of 2006. The headwall of the Salathe Wall is the most exposure I've ever experienced.
Climbed East Butt and the Trip, what a amazing piece of stone!!!
I heard this route was the "easy" way... gotta love it when 16 miles and 4K of elevation gain is called the "easy" way ;)
Climbed this route with MichaelJ during our week in Yosemite. We started hiking at 5:30AM and were on the route at 7AM. The first pitch was a lot of fun and I had an easier time than expected in the chimney. The crux on pitch 2 also went smoothly and we cruised all the way through the roof on pitch 7. Pitches 8 and 9 were the hardest for me. I led pitches 1,4,5,7,9,12,13. We topped out at 4:30PM and did the descent down the East Ledges in about 2.5 hours, reaching the car just as it got dark. It was probably the biggest rock climb that I've done.
El Cap Base Routes:
Little John Right (5.8, 3 pitches) -- October 11, 2008 -- Pretty stout for the grade, with tricky climbing on the traverse on P2. The ledge at the top is a sweet spot for sure.
1999 - Nose w/ Joe Crowe
2000 - North America Wall w/ Victor from Spain
2000 - Zodiac w/ Luc
2001 - Tangerine Trip w/ Dave Potter
2001 - Shield w/ Jo from Wales
2003 - Salathe Wall w/ Stephen Quale
2007 - Nose IAD w/ Josh Higgins (22 hours)
Ok, so my cousin Phil and I are not climbers, but we did reach the summit from Tioga Road. We saw a trail marked on the map from 120 to Tamarack Falt which turned out not to be there and we had to route find our way there. Spent the night at Ribbon Meadows and reached the top the following morning. All in all a great trip!
Taking time off of climbing to spend time with family prior to moving to montana I was given an oportunity to do the cap. After only 25 days of training, we set out to do the nose, but hate crowds so continued to hike around the corner to check out the Lurking Fear route. Jackie Florin was rope-soloing it and was on the 4th pitch (she later said Han's was home watching the new baby). We had it to ourselves all 5 days. Jackie left us in the dust on day 2. We were solid but slow. Drank all 80 lbs of water and were glad to have brought so much. Not enough water was the reason why 3 parties per day were bailing off the nose route!
E. Butt in Oct/02 with Jeff K. and then the Salathe Wall in Jun/06 with Jeff K. and Hayden D.
Day-hiked up to El Cap from Tamarack Flat (about 17 miles round trip). Great views and great trail....didn't see anyone else the entire time.
To meet friends topping out on Salathe. They were late, I drank the wine!
Climbed the nose in 2.5 days. loved it, must go back.
A dream come true. It happened because my friends helped me believe that was possible. Five days on The Stone and as John Long says " A drama for which tickets are not sold". A bigger dream came after I climbed it in 2000: I wanted to do it in a single push. It happened in 2003 by a coincidence of will and desire.
UP the Nose. I've eyed that route and rock for a long time. Mostly being a sport climber converted to trad in '93 and had this on my wishlist ever since. We did it in 3 LONG days. Climbed until 3:30 the last night Set up our bivy right under the top (on the bolt ladder) so we could wake up to the incredible view down below!!!
Got to the 6th pitch when the Falls turned on us and we had to rap. The arete was incredible and I enjoyed the first pitch chimney
4+ days with the Gazelle. Led and hauled all pitches. Perfect conditions and good climbing to P13. P15 proved to be the psychological crux. Arduous descent via Falls Trail followed by midnight jog to car at meadow.
First El Cap route. Would recommend it. Four Days and 2 nights on the wall. Bivied at the pillar of despair w/ 3 people on a double ledge - good fun!
7/05 - Lurking Fear with Eric Strom. My frist (and maybe last) trip up the big stone. Got my ass handed to me by the heat. Cramps, puking, you name it. Sport hooking = good fun. Thanks Eric for getting me up. Found out Im gonna be a daddy hours before the approach. Silver fish on last 5.10 pitch were not cool.
see trip report
Two bivies. We fixed no lines.