El Cracko Diablo

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W
Additional Information Route Type: Rock climb- hand crack!!
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.8
Sign the Climber's Log


From the bottom of the Standard South Face Rappel Route, walk to the right ( east) across the Sout Face ramp and around the corner to the spacious East Bench. El Cracko is the obvious, left-side-in hand crack that is the 4th to the right

Route Description

This is one of the two Classic 5.8 Routes on the Tower. It was first climbed in the early '70's by Pat Padden and Rod Johnson of Midwest Mountaineering in Minneapolis, MN. !! A True Classic!!

Pitch 1. (90ft, 5.7) From the East Bench, climb the left-side-in crack. It is hands-to-fist size and occaisionally wider. Many edges and nubbins outside and inside the crack help you along your way.The pitch ends at a series of 6" wide ledges and a 4 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2.( 155ft, 5.8) From the belay, rock on up this Classic hand and fist crack. Keeping your outside hand and foot, high makes this totally enjoyable. A small bulge 2/3 of the way up is readily protected with a #1 Friend. Later, as the crack widens near its end, a #4 Friend might be comforting. Belay on large ledge with 3 bolt anchor.

Finish. Take Standard 3rd Class Thrash, to the top or rappel the route.

Essential Gear

Standard rack with many, many hand and fist sized pieces. The 2nd pitch will accept gear every 3 feet, if you'd like. It is a lllooonnnggg pitch, so be sure to take more than enough.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.