El Diente Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 84

Flex - Jan 21, 2007 10:33 pm

Traverse from Mt Wilson Jul/04  Sucess!

A short summit visit with static crackling in the air. I risked standing up for a moment to snap a photo, but that was too scary!


weeds19 - Jan 18, 2007 4:29 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2001

A long, solo day  Sucess!

I didn't really know how long the Wilson - El Diente ridge would take and I ended up hiking the last hour to my tent after the sun was well below the horizon. This was a great route and I enjoyed every minute of the climbing.


shknbke - Sep 15, 2006 6:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006

from Navajo Lake  Sucess!

Took over 5 hrs one way from Navajo Lake with an afternoon start as the weather broke temporarily. Took north slopes route which is the loosest, most dangerous rock I have been on. I would highly recommend NOT descending this route!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Aug 21, 2006 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

West Ridge via Navajo Lake (ascent), Traverse to Mount Wilson  Sucess!

12 hours roundtrip from Navajo Lake TH. Trip Report


CODave - Aug 12, 2006 5:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2006

North Slopes  Sucess!

Started w/ El Diente from Navajo Basin, traversed to Mt. Wilson, then traversed in talus below Gladstone up to Gladstone-Wilson Peak saddle and then on to Wilson Peak. Descended and left camp. 15 hr day camp to TH


seth@LOKI - Jul 26, 2006 7:16 pm

2x  Sucess!

2x and counting


shanahan96 - Jul 1, 2006 12:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2006

south buttress  Sucess!

soloed the south buttress from kilpacker basin. it's a class 5.0-5.2 route going through some questionable rock. being early in the season with no one for miles, just throw the bad rock aside and keep going. a scary yet exhilirating route! do this one.


Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Mar 20, 2006 2:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1969

North Slope.  Sucess!

Inexperienced climbers might want a rope in a couple of places just below the summit ... mostly for the exposure.


markhyams - Mar 3, 2006 12:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1999

North Face  Sucess!

Snow was mostly melted out, with it being a steep dirt climb, with a few patches of ice. I came in from Silver Pick basin.


LS - Dec 26, 2005 4:50 pm

Route Climbed: north slopes Date Climbed: 8-sep-2005  Sucess!

See the trip-report here: http://distantpeak.com/web/mountains/n-america/mount_wilson


km_donovan - Sep 16, 2005 10:48 am

Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: September 6, 2005  Sucess!

Surprised with how many wild flowers there were and how lush the grass was. It was great to be there after Labor Day since there was only 1 other person on the mountain that day .


skideep1 - Jul 22, 2005 4:36 am

Route Climbed: Kilpacker Creek South Slopes Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!

Started early. Solo ascent. Off Mtn by 9:30am


doumall - Jul 13, 2005 1:55 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from Mt. Wilson Date Climbed: 7-10-05  Sucess!

Summited with ColoradoScott. Traverse was solid and fun, took 3 hours. The descent off El Diente into Navajo Basin is loose and steep. Take this mountain seriously!


ColoradoScott - Jul 12, 2005 1:03 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge traverse from Mt. Wilson Date Climbed: July 10, 2005  Sucess!

The ridge traverse IS a classic, but not as difficult as I imagined. The downclimbs and scrambles are exiting and the exposure along parts of the ridge are exhilarating (or terrifying to some, probably)!!! The traverse took three hours. On the descent, We scrambled down rocks to reach the main snow couloir and found the top of the snow to be thin (18" over rock) and I took a nasty fall, despite my crampons and axe. After immediately attemping self-arrest, which only slowed my progress on the 55 degree slope, due to the rotten snow conditions, I flipped onto my back when my crampons caught a rock hidding under the shallow snow. Immediately I returned into the arrest positon, finally coming to a stop after a 100 foot slide (and only ten feet above a ten foot drop onto rocks. Fortunately, my quick reactions and equipment prevented any injuries other than scraped knuckles and some soreness.

My partner carefully downclimbed this section w/o incident, although he was shaken to watch my accident. Because of the steepness and soft snow, we downclimbed rock ribs until the slope angle eased back to about 35-40 degrees, where we tested the snow, and began glissading to the bottom, carefully avoiding and rock outcrops below. I finally hobbled into camp 13 hours after our day began.

The moral of the story is: 1)wear a helmet (like I did), 2) have an axe and crampons and know how to used them (it could save your life), 3) climb these with partners, and 4) do not take them lightly...they are difficult climbs with dangerous potential, even if the weather is perfect.

Larry V

Larry V - Feb 20, 2005 6:17 pm

Route Climbed: north slopes, return to Silver Pick Date Climbed: August 1995  Sucess!

Climbed the steep, snow-filled gullies and ribs up and down the north slope, following a partial descent from Mount Wilson to about 13,000'. This was a miserable route, and my most difficult climb in the Colorado Rockies to date. Made for an extremely long day, with the latter part being done in a cold rain.


bc44caesar - Aug 16, 2004 12:20 am

Route Climbed: North Slopes Date Climbed: 15 Aug 2004  Sucess!

Camped below the route on Sat...started up at 5:00a.m. and caught a beautiful sunrise half way up. We followed the couloir most of the way by climbing the rock on either side and then took a direct path up to the summit. Continued on the ridge traverse to Wilson after that.

Peter Eliassen

Peter Eliassen - Jul 22, 2004 3:50 pm

Route Climbed: Kilpacker Basin Date Climbed: June 20, 2004  Sucess!

Wow...what a beautiful campsite at Kilpacker. The end of the climb can be difficult as the route can disappear on you when there is snow coverage...pretty awesome though!

ctruscot - Jul 11, 2004 8:21 pm

Route Climbed: El Diente and ridge over to Wilson from Silver Pick trailhead Date Climbed: Jyly 9, 2004  Sucess!

Thursday and Friday joined a guide and three others on this

climb of El-Diente and Wilson via the ridge. See trip report.


DaveC - May 20, 2004 9:33 pm

Route Climbed: north chutes Date Climbed: june 02  Sucess!

miserable route. awesome campsite in Navajo basin, but without snow, avoid the north side and do kilpacker.


hhsilleck - Jan 10, 2004 7:09 pm

Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

A late summer freeze cemented the scree on the north face solid, so we had no problems with the infamous rockfall. Still, wear a helmet. Traversed to Mount Wilson. Another group on the mountain had a miserable + dangerous descent of this route - be careful.

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