El Diente Climber's Log

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Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 11:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2017

#23  Sucess!

This helluva basin provided me with one of the most stressful, mentally challenging days of the summer. Didn't expect the slopes to retain this much snow so with running shoes on I traversed the ridge all the way around and ended up on El Diente at sunset and "suicide climbed" down its North Slopes and safely made my way back to the Rock of Ages saddle and back to the car.


skorpeo - Dec 13, 2016 11:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2014

Great Day  Sucess!

North Buttress route.

utclimber - Oct 16, 2016 5:11 pm

El Diente  Sucess!

Combined with Wilson. Complicated descent.

Senad Rizvanovic

Senad Rizvanovic - Sep 7, 2015 7:13 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2015

''Low'' traverse  Sucess!

Due to some snow and ice on the ridge we decided to descent from Mt, Wilson into basin and start climbing El Diente from there. We were following well recognize trail almost to the top. I found ElDiente way easier than i expected. Great views from the top, amazing day in the mountains.


MissH - Aug 3, 2015 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2015

Via Kilpacker Approach  Sucess!

Lots of scrambling fun, great camping near trailhead. Ran out of time for traverse to Mt. Wilson. Climbed with MoapaPk (Harlan) and two others.


astroclimber - Aug 17, 2014 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2014

Another Beautiful Day  Sucess!

With Kat and Dave

Sarah Simon

Sarah Simon - Jul 5, 2014 9:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014

Kilpacker  Sucess!

Holy smokes, Kilpacker Basin is amazingly beautiful!!! Just incredible!!! We had nice snow to climb, enjoyable scrambling, incredible scenery! Loved this mountains. Got hammered by hail on the outhike, though. With Jaimee & Grant and Mike. What a day!


MadGrad96 - Nov 1, 2013 10:34 pm

Traverse  Sucess!

North buttress and traverse over to Mt Wilson


DanielL - Oct 9, 2013 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2013

South face from Kilpacker  Sucess!

Enjoyed a fantastic early morning climb of El Diente from Kilpacker Basin - from what I heard from other climbers, the south route is a ton better than the standard North gully. Went on to traverse to Mt. Wilson.


rockymountaindiva - Jul 26, 2013 3:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

El Diente-Mt Wilson  Sucess!

Fun traverse from El Diente to Mt Wilson from Navajo Basin.


earth1 - Jul 15, 2013 4:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

South ascent/North descent  Sucess!

Myself and partner. Backpack loop from Cross Mountain TH- Kilpacker basin- El Diente-Navajo Basin- Rock of Ages Saddle- Lizzard Head- back to Cross Mountain TH. Very sketchy descent on El Diente North couloir, triggered one significant and humbling snow/rockslide, hugged the East flank. Scary descent with heavy packs. Descending N. Couloir late in the summer not recommended. Perhaps the Wilson traverse and down has more stable rock.

Otherwise beautiful trip.


blueshade - Jul 2, 2013 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013

West Ridge + Traverse  Sucess!

Soloed as a day trip from Navajo TH. West Ridge to El Diente and then continued the Traverse to Mt. Wilson.

Stayed mostly true on the West Ridge and thought it was at least as hard and exposed as the Traverse itself (although did not stay nearly as true on the Traverse).

11.5 hrs incl. time on summits, taking pics, and talking to people (but ran part way back)

milan - Oct 21, 2012 5:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2012

Second try  Sucess!

First time I wanted to hike this peak with the Wilsons but a torrential downpour washed me out. This time, after a very successful week in the Elks, I succeeded.


alpspitze - Aug 13, 2012 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2012

Kilpacker  Sucess!

Lots of loose rock but a nice climb anyway. Went solo. 9 1/2 hours RT. Lots of animal prints on the trail, but didn't see any animals.


boisedoc - Jul 22, 2012 11:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012

from Kilpacker  Sucess!

lower Kilpacker creek is pretty. The upper basin is a lot of scree. Route is pretty well cairned but still need to be careful as there is some exposure.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Jul 11, 2012 11:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2012

North Slopes snow climb/Traverse  Sucess!

After some scrambling off route a little, we summitted then traversed to Mount Wilson. Approached via Rock of Ages

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Jul 11, 2012 3:03 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2012

North Side  Sucess!

We got a bit off route near the top, after scrambling back a bit we were feeling silly for missing the obvious turn off. Another fun scramble.

Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Jun 29, 2012 3:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2012

Via the North Slope  Sucess!

Left Navajo Lake at 6am knowing that there was a 30% chance of tstorms. Got to the top of El Diente via the god-awful North Slope Route at 9:20am (I will never do that again). Part of our group was having issues with exposure so we left the summit of El Diente at 10:00am and half our group decided to go down. We continued across the ridge and got to the saddle in 40 mins. A storm rolled in and we watched and heard the lighting from the ridge over Navajo Basin. It cleared up so we kept going. Went off route in the crux section and ended up climbing some scary 5th class choss. We summited Mt. Wilson at 11:30am and then went down the regular route back to lake. All in all, it took 8 hours roundtrip. The summit ridge to Mt. Wilson is spectacular and the coolest summit ridge I have ever done


Diggler - Jun 28, 2012 5:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2012

Glad I survived!  Sucess!

West ridge. Left lake at 15.46. Shortly before reaching ridge crest, Faith decided to turn back (windy, late, loose rock). I continued (17.27 @ this pt.). Initial section of ridge straightfwd (class 2ish)- even had a trail! Notches in ridge kept getting deeper & ridge more & more knife-edged. Last 1/4 mile full-value. @ one particular section, it took 4 tries/attempted routes before figuring out a way to get through the section. After that, it relented slightly, but still plenty of stomach-turning exposure, numerous class 4 sections, nightmarishly loose rock. Very relieved when summited @ 20.07 (probably a record for me on a CO 14er), but still had to get down. Had vowed last ~20 min. of climb that I would not repeat that ridge, so did variation of standard (N slopes) route- avoided snow as much as possible as did not bringe ice axe from camp (d'oh!) & didn't have gaiters. Back @ Navajo Lake camp @ 22.54. Spent ~15 min. @ summit. Could tell there was large forest fire to SE. Sad Faith couldn't be on climb, but she would have hated it. Wild climb! One of the scariest soloes I've done.

Timothy Pearl

Timothy Pearl - May 21, 2012 1:16 am Date Climbed: May 19, 2012

North Slopes  Sucess!

With Ben and Eric. Great snow climb on N Face to the ridge from Navajo Basin. Final pushes to the summit a bit sketchy with loose rock, ice, slush, mud and exposure. Usually find this terrain fun but have been out of the game mentally for some time now. Need to heed some prudence and rebuild some comfort before doing that again.

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